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Razor
You have half the budget of your daily driver's MSRP to build a weekend racer. You must buy a car and then optionally outfit it for the track.

The rules:
- Use eBay, Craigslist or forum post asking prices for used car and part prices and link to them.
- For new car prices, assume 85-90% of MSRP (because we can all outsmart salesmen on here).
- For new part prices, use MSRP from manufacturer's site and link to the product pages.
- Assume whatever you buy is in a state of repair good enough to not need repair funds (obviously, if you find some beat to shit MX-5 for $200 that needs a new engine, find another).
- Post pictures.

I'll go in the next post when I gather all my info.
fiber optic
For craigslist posts and maybe some ebay ones, it may be wise to capture a screen shot in the event they get removed. That way we won't be clicking a bunch of links to "this post has been removed" pages.

Any idea on the MSRP of a '97 F150 flareside with 4.6L?
clarkma5
The MSRP on my GTI was $20k. Well obviously I'm gonna get a Miata going for half that tongue.gif

I want a '94 Miata with the power steering package and nothing else, convert the steering to manual, clean up the engine (RX-7 II MAF and coolant reroute for a start, in addition to whatever else it may need), strip the interior, install a HardDog M2 rollbar with harness tabs, 6-point harnesses and low-profile seats for helmet clearance, flyin' miata butterfly brace, 15" wheels with 205/50R15 DOT-legal R-compound tires or similar (Star Specs or something like that perhaps), and then for suspension there's several ways one could go...I think some ground control coilovers on Koni sports with new bushings would be where I would start, pretty cheap and cornerweightable. Call that a "first iteration" on the suspension. Oh yeah, and a Torsen diff from another miata.

If I had money left over after that (probably not), I'd like to invest $2000-$3000 into nice headwork and ECM tuning to make a nice NA 1.8 motor, though it would probably be easier to just supercharge it for the same cost.

I'm loving the way Edmunds's long term Miata is looking these days:

dukenukem
QUOTE(clarkma5 @ Jul 13 2011, 07:15 PM) *
The MSRP on my GTI was $20k. Well obviously I'm gonna get a Miata going for half that tongue.gif

I want a '94 Miata with the power steering package and nothing else, convert the steering to manual, clean up the engine (RX-7 II MAF and coolant reroute for a start, in addition to whatever else it may need), strip the interior, install a HardDog M2 rollbar with harness tabs, 6-point harnesses and low-profile seats for helmet clearance, flyin' miata butterfly brace, 15" wheels with 205/50R15 DOT-legal R-compound tires or similar (Star Specs or something like that perhaps), and then for suspension there's several ways one could go...I think some ground control coilovers on Koni sports with new bushings would be where I would start, pretty cheap and cornerweightable. Call that a "first iteration" on the suspension. Oh yeah, and a Torsen diff from another miata.

If I had money left over after that (probably not), I'd like to invest $2000-$3000 into nice headwork and ECM tuning to make a nice NA 1.8 motor, though it would probably be easier to just supercharge it for the same cost.

I'm loving the way Edmunds's long term Miata is looking these days:




Pretty much this but with a nice turbo set up.
Vadvagool
By MSRP Do you mean what it costs when it was new, what is costs when we bought it, or what it costs now?

Edit: Mine was ~21k I think, but I bought it at 12k.
Altostratus
since I dont have a daily driver anymore, ill just assume the cars I drive daily are my daily drivers rolleyes.gif
GT3 Cup Car

i would have a new headers and xpipe installed with an IPD plenum installed have it running moton's and hoosiers and probably some motec action.

not bad for 62k+oh.......another 10k for the motons
shandyman5
Well, since were on the topic of Porsche's I think I will take either one of these little toys out.... Anyone wanna have a friendly little competition? whistle.gif DS_Naughty2.gif






Razor
QUOTE(shandyman5 @ Jul 14 2011, 10:11 AM) *
Well, since were on the topic of Porsche's I think I will take either one of these little toys out.... Anyone wanna have a friendly little competition? whistle.gif DS_Naughty2.gif


Your daily driver had an MSRP of $880,000 or $1,000,000?
shandyman5
QUOTE(Razor @ Jul 14 2011, 10:15 AM) *
Your daily driver had an MSRP of $880,000 or $1,000,000?


You shut your whore mouth.

More like 300-400K rolleyes.gif
Razor
QUOTE(shandyman5 @ Jul 14 2011, 10:39 AM) *
You shut your whore mouth.

More like 300-400K rolleyes.gif


You broke mah rules, Ima lay down the law on yo' ass.

Also, I'm still working on my actual submission to this thread.
shandyman5
QUOTE(Razor @ Jul 14 2011, 10:40 AM) *
You broke mah rules, Ima lay down the law on yo' ass.

Also, I'm still working on my actual submission to this thread.


Me as well... I haven't decided the vehicle yet.
Bjorn
My Legacy had an MSRP of $28,000 (yes, we Canadians get the shaft on car prices).

So that gives me a budget of $14,000.

1999 2.5L Boxster, with the optional sport package. "Buy it now" is $10,995, but with 3 days to go there are no bids, so I'll split the difference between the "Buy it now" and reserve prices, so we'll call it $9,250.


Leaving me with $4,750

-BHP performance brake pads $346
-4 17 inch Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires $964
-Front and Rear Tarett adjustable sway bars $1,075
-Bilstein adjustable suspension kit $2,365

Total: $4853 (I found $103 in change between the seats — if people squak I'll hold off on the brake pads, assuming the ones on the car now are in good nick).


I thought about starting with a 914, but prices for OK 986s are hovering so close to the prices for questionable 914s that I don't really see a point in buying a 914 ATM . . . especially since I consider the 986 to be the successor to the 914.

EDIT: I didn't know we were listing what we would do to the cars that didn't cost money.

For me, a big one would be an AC delete. I don't get AC in a roadster.

Eventually I would try to source some light door cards, with the pull strap instead of a handle . . . I love that.
Razor
$35,630 MSRP in 2007 = $17,815 to spend... here we go:



$5,500 for this pretty good condition 190E 2.3-16 Cosworth.

Leaves me with $12,315 to do stuff with...

Step 1: Rip out the interior. All of it. All seats, interior paneling, most of the dash, center console, everything. That's free.

Step 2: Seat and harness. I'll take one of the these for $900 and a Corbeau 5-point for $150. Harness/roll bar custom fab'd for $450. So, now the car's safe. Down to $10,815.

Step 3: Suspension and handling. Bilstein Sport Shocks, 4 for $644, down to $10,171. MB 190E Evo II thicker rear sway bar at $230, down to $9,941.

Step 4: Tires. Hankook Ventus Z214. $151 a pop, so I'm down to $9337.

Step 5: Brakes. Hawk Ceramic Pads and SP Performance rotors. Comes to $672, I'm down to $8,665.

Step 6: Body. Evo II Aerodynamics. $2,400. Down to $6,265.

Step 7: Engine. Evo II Headers ($1,800), Sport Cams ($900), Wiesco Forged Pistons ($1000), Carrillo Chromoly Rods ($1575). Total comes to $5275, so I'm down to $990.

Step 8: Telemetry. Racelogic VBOX PerformanceBox Mini. Costs $500, so now $490.

Step 9: Track Day Stuff. Alpinestars Tech-1 K Short Cuff Gloves ($30), Simpson Super Bandit ($370), H3R Performance MX250B Fire Extinguisher ($70), and that leaves $20 for lunch and a drink afterwards.

I know I didn't look for deals or anything, but this is my ideal track car right now. WANT.
Altostratus
shandy....you know if you drive the Carrera GT at the track it will kill you

RIP Ben Keaton and VRAlexander

both taken by the beast that is the Carrera GT
MustangAficionado
Razor, you're buying engine internals and cams and what - building the engine yourself? Also, that's a bitch ton for 4 piston rods.

Also, you bought a 5-point harness, that recaro looks like a 4 point.
Razor
QUOTE(MustangAficionado @ Jul 14 2011, 08:07 PM) *
Razor, you're buying engine internals and cams and what - building the engine yourself?


There's a first time for everything. I'd love to learn, and my grandfather's got a good facility and all the tools necessary.


QUOTE(MustangAficionado @ Jul 14 2011, 08:07 PM) *
Also, that's a bitch ton for 4 piston rods.


Yeah. I didn't "shop around" for better prices, but parts for this old thing are expensive in general.


QUOTE(MustangAficionado @ Jul 14 2011, 08:07 PM) *
Also, you bought a 5-point harness, that recaro looks like a 4 point.


Whoops. I though you could adapt that though?
MustangAficionado
QUOTE(Razor @ Jul 14 2011, 06:41 PM) *
There's a first time for everything. I'd love to learn, and my grandfather's got a good facility and all the tools necessary.




Yeah. I didn't "shop around" for better prices, but parts for this old thing are expensive in general.




Whoops. I though you could adapt that though?

Some of the bottoms switch out, it being a fixed seat you're odds are high, but I dunno. I ran into the same problem, my recaro SPD doesnt convert and a 5-point would be preferable.
Altostratus
id settle for no less than a HANS capable seat. i happen to love my neck
not cheap, but neither is my neck.


to be honest, my friends track car IS my dream track car

Herrafrush/Herrasticky

and niiiiiice and light
shandyman5
QUOTE(Bjorn @ Jul 14 2011, 12:25 PM) *
My Legacy had an MSRP of $28,000 (yes, we Canadians get the shaft on car prices).

So that gives me a budget of $14,000.

1999 2.5L Boxster, with the optional sport package. "Buy it now" is $10,995, but with 3 days to go there are no bids, so I'll split the difference between the "Buy it now" and reserve prices, so we'll call it $9,250.


Leaving me with $4,750

-BHP performance brake pads $346
-4 17 inch Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires $964
-Front and Rear Tarett adjustable sway bars $1,075
-Bilstein adjustable suspension kit $2,365

Total: $4853 (I found $103 in change between the seats if people squak I'll hold off on the brake pads, assuming the ones on the car now are in good nick).


I thought about starting with a 914, but prices for OK 986s are hovering so close to the prices for questionable 914s that I don't really see a point in buying a 914 ATM . . . especially since I consider the 986 to be the successor to the 914.

EDIT: I didn't know we were listing what we would do to the cars that didn't cost money.

For me, a big one would be an AC delete. I don't get AC in a roadster.

Eventually I would try to source some light door cards, with the pull strap instead of a handle . . . I love that.


There is ONLY one good brake pad for a track car Porsche... It is PAGID, no if's and's or but's. If your making a track car, lose the puny PS2's and step up to RE-11's, TOYO 888's or Hoosier's..... youll apppreciate the difference.
midnightdorifto
QUOTE(Altostratus @ Jul 14 2011, 06:57 PM) *
shandy....you know if you drive the Carrera GT at the track it will kill you

RIP Ben Keaton and VRAlexander

both taken by the beast that is the Carrera GT

RIP indeed.

To set the record straight, though, VRAlexander was driving his 996 911T.
midnightdorifto
QUOTE(Razor @ Jul 13 2011, 09:25 AM) *
You have half the budget of your daily driver's MSRP to build a weekend racer. You must buy a car and then optionally outfit it for the track.

The rules:
- Use eBay, Craigslist or forum post asking prices for used car and part prices and link to them.
- For new car prices, assume 85-90% of MSRP (because we can all outsmart salesmen on here).
- For new part prices, use MSRP from manufacturer's site and link to the product pages.
- Assume whatever you buy is in a state of repair good enough to not need repair funds (obviously, if you find some beat to shit MX-5 for $200 that needs a new engine, find another).
- Post pictures.

I'll go in the next post when I gather all my info.

CTS-V MSRP was $52K (lol depreciation), so let's get this started for $26K.

'75 914 - $3,500

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-914...5fCarsQ5fTrucks

http://www.renegadehybrids.com/914/SBC/SBC.html

Basic 914 SBC Coversion Kit - $1,900
Custom Radiator Assembly - $995

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...-transaxle.html

993 6-speed LSD G50 Transaxle - $4,500

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914...debody-kit.html

Widebody Kit - $3,500

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Chevrol...es#ht_500wt_956

LS2 Crate Motor - $4,995

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/p...914packages.htm

Full 914 Racing Suspension - $3,969

Wheel & Tire Budget - $2,000

Krylon Paint Budget - $50



Anyone wanna race? And first round is on me, since I've got $591 left in my budget.
midnightdorifto
QUOTE(shandyman5 @ Jul 15 2011, 08:42 AM) *
There is ONLY one good brake pad for a track car Porsche... It is PAGID, no if's and's or but's. If your making a track car, lose the puny PS2's and step up to RE-11's, TOYO 888's or Hoosier's..... youll apppreciate the difference.

RE-11's != Hoosiers.

Hoosier R6s? That'll be new hubs, upgraded suspension, upgraded diff, etc. That's a hell of a lot more grip you're playing with.
dukenukem
Also, Hankook R-S3 = RE-11 on the track.

Different story in the wet but on track performance is same if not better.
Altostratus
thats true.
didnt he like...invent nintendo's virtual boy or some weird shit like that.
shandyman5
QUOTE(midnightdorifto @ Jul 16 2011, 01:17 PM) *
RE-11's != Hoosiers.

Hoosier R6s? That'll be new hubs, upgraded suspension, upgraded diff, etc. That's a hell of a lot more grip you're playing with.



RE-11's != Hoosiers. <------What exactly does that mean?


shandyman5
QUOTE(dukenukem @ Jul 16 2011, 09:43 PM) *
Also, Hankook R-S3 = RE-11 on the track.

Different story in the wet but on track performance is same if not better.



They aren't available in our size so i cannot speak for them. We are getting a second wheel setup with Hoosier R6's.... It is going to really make a big difference.
dukenukem
QUOTE(shandyman5 @ Jul 17 2011, 12:15 PM) *
RE-11's != Hoosiers. <------What exactly does that mean?

It means you can't compare a street tire even with 140 tread rating to any Nom street legal race tires.
midnightdorifto
QUOTE(dukenukem @ Jul 17 2011, 01:40 PM) *
It means you can't compare a street tire even with 140 tread rating to any Nom street legal race tires.

+1

I've got RE-11s on the C6 right now. They've got a ton of grip and are by far the best street tire I've ever driven. The grip difference between RE-11s and R6s is very notable. I can't put them on the C6 without making some modifications to the drivetrain (as I mentioned above) or else I would risk breaking parts. If you're making the switch to R6s, I might suggest you look to what kind of drivetrain modifications before something expensive breaks on the track.
shandyman5
QUOTE(midnightdorifto @ Jul 17 2011, 04:34 PM) *
+1

I've got RE-11s on the C6 right now. They've got a ton of grip and are by far the best street tire I've ever driven. The grip difference between RE-11s and R6s is very notable. I can't put them on the C6 without making some modifications to the drivetrain (as I mentioned above) or else I would risk breaking parts. If you're making the switch to R6s, I might suggest you look to what kind of drivetrain modifications before something expensive breaks on the track.


Say wut? Where did you ever hear you have to upgrade the drivetrain if you get R6's..... I know 4 guys who we regularly go do HPDE events with and they all run R6's. Two cars have bolt on's, one is a heads cam LS3 and one is a stock Z06. None have any such drivetrain upgrades you speak of, there is zero risk you run of breaking parts any more than if you have RE-11 or such at the track.

Not one Porsche, Chevy, Subaru, or Ford guy I know has had to make "upgrades" to run at the track with R6's.....
midnightdorifto
QUOTE(shandyman5 @ Jul 17 2011, 03:56 PM) *
Say wut? Where did you ever hear you have to upgrade the drivetrain if you get R6's..... I know 4 guys who we regularly go do HPDE events with and they all run R6's. Two cars have bolt on's, one is a heads cam LS3 and one is a stock Z06. None have any such drivetrain upgrades you speak of, there is zero risk you run of breaking parts any more than if you have RE-11 or such at the track.

Not one Porsche, Chevy, Subaru, or Ford guy I know has had to make "upgrades" to run at the track with R6's.....

I can tell you that the C5 and C6 guys out at my club have all changed out hubs at the very least and made the recommendation to change out the diff on top of that. The Viper guys I talked to recommended the same. Heard this from some of the folks out at Lou Gigliotti's shop too. I've driven slicks and I've driven RE-11s. I've got about 25,000 miles with the latter - the difference is certainly noticeable and I would have a hard time believing that the stock equipment would be up for it for any extended period of time on the track. More anecdotal evidence for you:

GT-R Owner with serious wear switching away from R6s:
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/lofiversion/...php/t45606.html

C5 Z06 Broken Hubs due to running R6s:
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f90/broken-...y-check-105653/

Evo X Broken Hubs while running R6s:
http://evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=431440

Not sure what kind of track time these guys are seeing that you know, but extended exposure running at 10/10ths will subject those parts to more wear than they were designed for. Keep in mind, the LS3 Corvettes were designed with Run-Flats in mind. The difference between the stock PS2s that come on the C6 Z06 and the R6 is staggering (the Sport Cups that come on it now are closer, but still not nearly offering the grip of the R6.) There's a lot of evidence out there if you'd like to satisfy yourself, and I know you'll certainly be pleased with the added grip that they provide (they're about the best tires money can buy, and you'll go through a set in 3-5 track days if you're really pushing it), but you might consider doing some upgrades on the weak links the car before just tossing them on. Just a thought for you - some folks might not push it that hard or the car might not see that much time out on the track and might be able to get away with it. It is most certainly *not* zero-risk and I'd highly recommend that you do some research on your own before diving in with both feet on them.
shandyman5
QUOTE(midnightdorifto @ Jul 18 2011, 02:12 AM) *
I can tell you that the C5 and C6 guys out at my club have all changed out hubs at the very least and made the recommendation to change out the diff on top of that. The Viper guys I talked to recommended the same. Heard this from some of the folks out at Lou Gigliotti's shop too. I've driven slicks and I've driven RE-11s. I've got about 25,000 miles with the latter - the difference is certainly noticeable and I would have a hard time believing that the stock equipment would be up for it for any extended period of time on the track. More anecdotal evidence for you:

GT-R Owner with serious wear switching away from R6s:
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/lofiversion/...php/t45606.html

C5 Z06 Broken Hubs due to running R6s:
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/f90/broken-...y-check-105653/

Evo X Broken Hubs while running R6s:
http://evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=431440

Not sure what kind of track time these guys are seeing that you know, but extended exposure running at 10/10ths will subject those parts to more wear than they were designed for. Keep in mind, the LS3 Corvettes were designed with Run-Flats in mind. The difference between the stock PS2s that come on the C6 Z06 and the R6 is staggering (the Sport Cups that come on it now are closer, but still not nearly offering the grip of the R6.) There's a lot of evidence out there if you'd like to satisfy yourself, and I know you'll certainly be pleased with the added grip that they provide (they're about the best tires money can buy, and you'll go through a set in 3-5 track days if you're really pushing it), but you might consider doing some upgrades on the weak links the car before just tossing them on. Just a thought for you - some folks might not push it that hard or the car might not see that much time out on the track and might be able to get away with it. It is most certainly *not* zero-risk and I'd highly recommend that you do some research on your own before diving in with both feet on them.


So after reading your post I decided to put a call in this morning to a good family friend of ours, who is one of the country's most renowned and respected Corvette performance and tuning shop in the country. I asked him about the whole running R6's kills diffs and hubs debacle. He said that while the C5's were more notorious for burning up diffs. He has seen only a handful of problems with C6's, and that stock for stock they are much stronger than the previous lackluster C5. I texted our friend who mind you is a former Ferrari 355 World Challenge Driver and former Ferrari Club Instructor and asked him if he had any problems or had heard of any problems with C6's blowing diff's of loosing hubs, and granted he had heard of some but said he felt it was more driver cause with Hoosier's than vehicle related. this is also a guy who is a great driver who regularly takes his LS2 C6 and drives 8/10ths to 10/10ths at the track.

I will say this, in my humble opinion two of the three cars you posted are pieces of shit. I am putting my flame suit on but the GTR is a piece of garbage, it has been since the R35 came out, and it is nothing but unimpressive to me. They have a ton of drivetrain problems with stock tires let alone Hoosier's. The second car, the Evo, is a Mitsubitchi, 'nuff said.

I will agree that nothing ever put on a car is zero risk, but I do believe that most HPDE drivers who install R6's on their Vette's will not have a problem. That is in terms of C6's at least.

I have done hours upon hours of research on Hoosier's on Porsche's and while we all no Porsche's are made by the hands of God. They are truly a vehicle that you can throw them onto and go, I not only confirmed this with online research bt also with the Porsche dealer I work with which is the main tech inspection facility for most NNJR events. Every PCA HPDE event I go to has dozens of Porsche's that are stock and run R6's and none of them need a single thing, or then become notorious for having somethign break on them.

Rant over, all I am saying is I do believe you could run them with no issue and not having to worry about things breaking.
Razor
QUOTE(shandyman5 @ Jul 18 2011, 09:27 AM) *
Mitsubitchi


You mean this?
shandyman5
QUOTE(Razor @ Jul 18 2011, 09:34 AM) *
You mean this?


Negative, I could go into a much longer rant about what a POS the new 4B11 is and Mitsu's DCCT, but I will let it go, and just stick with Mitsubitchi for now.
dukenukem
The way I see it putting in the R6 will put extra strain on your wheel hubs and diffs which won't cause them to fail as much as wear them out quicker than normal. In some cars these parts are the weak links and others not so much. I know a few Subaru guys had to upgrade their hubs a few years before schedule due to the wear from track tires. Ymmv
Altostratus
i like how all this talk about vettes and R6's is happening, yet i posted a pretty much stock mini cooper S on R6's and nobody says shit about that.
shandyman5
QUOTE(Altostratus @ Jul 19 2011, 07:37 PM) *
i like how all this talk about vettes and R6's is happening, yet i posted a pretty much stock mini cooper S on R6's and nobody says shit about that.


I have seen it before.... It isn't that unique. Mini's are great track cars especially for being FWD.
Altostratus
noone said it was unique, its just alot of drivetrain wear aswell.
shandyman5
QUOTE(Altostratus @ Jul 19 2011, 07:43 PM) *
noone said it was unique.


Fine, sorry.

Dudemanbro! that fucking pick is like supersicknastyawesome. I wish I was mandudebadass enough to have thought of that! Awesome. thumbs_up.gif
Altostratus
you missed the edit dudemanbro.

also yeah the avatar....im working on that had to work then forgot
moe
I've always had this fantasy of turning a C-class Sport Coupe or CLC into a track car. It's small, RWD, looks pretty good (I know that's something not everyone agrees on), and you can shoe-horn a big AMG V8 into it. A clean, '04 C-class sports coupe can be had for less than half my car's MSRP (it's about $10k for one of those, and my car's MSRP was about $25k). I'd probably find a junk-yard 5.5L AMG V8, upgrade the suspension bits, and strip the thing out. Probably go with some Brabus accessories.

Mr b00st
QUOTE(Altostratus @ Jul 14 2011, 07:57 PM) *
shandy....you know if you drive the Carrera GT at the track it will kill you

RIP Ben Keaton and VRAlexander

both taken by the beast that is the Carrera GT


you know VRAlexander died driving a 996 Twin turbo (AWD) right?

Altostratus
yeah this was mentioned on page 1
Mr b00st
new MSRP of the DD was $22,550

so that gives me $11,225

Car:



good running AW11 MR2 w/salvage title, recent tune up, $2,400. leaves me with $8,625 :-D

1985 MR2 on AutoTrader

4 Enkei RPF1's in 15x7 from Tire Rack = $800 (leaves me with 7929)
4 Bridgestone Potenza RE-11's in 195/50/15 = $528 (leaves me with 7401)
D2 Racing RS Coilovers for AW11 = $942.50 (6458 remaining)
ST front and rear sway bars from twos r us = $309 (6149.50)
complete Prothane Bushing kit (F/R control arms, F/R strut bar, F/R sway bar, R strut bar control arm to chassis, steering rack to chassis) $105 (6044.50 left)
Goodridge braided steel brake lines (4 for $129, $5915)
Porterfield R4 brake pads, F/R - $155 and $178 (5582)

...that covers turning and stopping pretty well.

rather than spending a fortune building a 16v 4A-GE, why not just get the last of the 4A-GE's from an importer off ebay? the last 4A's (4AGE black tops) came in Sprinters in the late 90's, they had fancy 5 valve heads, 45mm individual throttle bodies, 11.0:1 compression, and later ones had 6-speed manuals with LSD's. They're expensive, but you get what you pay for.




$1,900 for a 4A-GE black top with 6 speed tranny, LSD, ECU, wiring harness, blah blah. (3682 remaining) already has a header on it too.

I'd strip the interior, probably spend the rest of the money on a roll cage, some decent seats and 4 point harnesses, and more tires.

not bad!

ninja edit, you can pick up a 4A-GE silver top (which has smaller TB's, 10.5:1, 5 speed open diff) for like $800, which would free up more money for stuff like a custom exhaust, a set of cams, aftermarket intake manifold, whatever.

It would be fun as shit!
shandyman5
Okay, I figured I would jump in.

The MSRP on my Mustang in 2002 was $25,000.

That gives me $12,500 to play with. firedevil.gif

E30

Car: 1986 BMW 325es- $1400.00
Gutting of interior (seats, carpet, trunk parts, spare, tire)- Free
Rebuild kit for 2.5L with forged rods, low comp pistons, new bearings, gaskets, etc.- $1500.00
Transmission Rebuild w/ upgraded synchros, rings, etc. $500.00
Used Short Throw Shifter- $50
Turbo w/ full exhaust- $4300
LSD with upgraded axles- $780
Pagid Pads w/ SS lines, vented rotos- $420
Swaybars, strut bars, coilovers, new poly bushings throughout, new trans mount, engine mount.- $800.00
Four TR Motorsports C1 Black Wheels 15x8- $400
Four Hoosier R6's- $880
Dyno Tune- $550
Used Corbeau Race seat with 5 point Harness- $500
Full Cage- $200

Total- $12,280

The Rest can go to 110 Octane fuel. thumbs_up.gif



Mr b00st
QUOTE(shandyman5 @ Aug 3 2011, 10:38 AM) *
Okay, I figured I would jump in.

The MSRP on my Mustang in 2002 was $25,000.

That gives me $12,500 to play with. firedevil.gif

E30

Car: 1986 BMW 325es- $1400.00
Gutting of interior (seats, carpet, trunk parts, spare, tire)- Free
Rebuild kit for 2.5L with forged rods, low comp pistons, new bearings, gaskets, etc.- $1500.00
Transmission Rebuild w/ upgraded synchros, rings, etc. $500.00
Used Short Throw Shifter- $50
Turbo w/ full exhaust- $4300
LSD with upgraded axles- $780
Pagid Pads w/ SS lines, vented rotos- $420
Swaybars, strut bars, coilovers, new poly bushings throughout, new trans mount, engine mount.- $800.00
Four TR Motorsports C1 Black Wheels 15x8- $400
Four Hoosier R6's- $880
Dyno Tune- $550
Used Corbeau Race seat with 5 point Harness- $500
Full Cage- $200

Total- $12,280

The Rest can go to 110 Octane fuel. thumbs_up.gif


ohhh this sounds like fun!



This gentleman followed a similar formula, except I believe the motor was an S50 with a big turbo on it. Or or an M50/M52, not sure, but it had coil packs etc. wiiiicked car.
shandyman5
Exactly! Except mine would be a coupe, and instead of drifting it would do something a little more like this.

fiber optic
No idea what the MSRP of my truck was. Assuming 25-ish thousand.


$1200 truck with blown motor, includes spare motor and 2nd transmission which I'd sell.


$3150 LS1, 4L60E, and wiring harness

New 9" housing and 31 spline axles
$869.95

Detroit Locker
$549.95

4.11's
$165.99

Wheels
$819.80

2 rear tires
$387.90

2 front tires
$185.90


That totals to $8313.49


I know I'd need a custom driveshaft and I'd want brake upgrades and seatbelts. I think that could be taken care of and still be under twelve and a half large.

All inspired by my buddy's '72 LWB but he rides with a 496 cubic inch big block and nitrous.

MustangAficionado
QUOTE(shandyman5 @ Aug 3 2011, 07:38 AM) *
Full Cage- $200

In on this $200 cage
shandyman5
QUOTE(MustangAficionado @ Oct 10 2011, 08:20 PM) *
In on this $200 cage


The perks of knowing people...... happy2.gif
MustangAficionado
QUOTE(shandyman5 @ Oct 10 2011, 04:22 PM) *
The perks of knowing people...... happy2.gif

You can barely buy enough DOM much less cromoly for a cage with that much cheddar
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