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Aircooled
I picked this baby up yesterday. She's pretty rough but solid and without a title. At this point I am going to get the engine running and the brakes to work so I can drive it like hell in the woods.











It's not getting spark so I am going to get new points, cap, rotor, condenser. Its getting voltage to the coil though.


EDIT: Guess what year it is, if you win, you will get a present. Better pics of progress will come also. I left my DSLR at college when I picked it up.
hexagone
wow.

good luck.
fiber optic
That's a '67
Bjorn
it might be because I cut my teeth on japanese cars, but that much rust would terrify me. I learned my lesson...if there is any rust walk the fuck away...cuz it will cost more than the car will ever be worth to set straight.

Maybe Bugs are different, but I know that rule generally applies to Porsches, except the ones where their value has skyrocketed...like early 911s and 356s.
hexagone
well, seeing as it has no title and will be driven through the woods- rust isnt too big of an issue.

Then again, this is purely a toy and I dont think anyone else would give you money for it if you needed it- perhaps in parts.

I hope it was free.
Aircooled
It is indeed a '67 and as such I'm sure I could probably get a buyer for it if I wanted to. For those not in the know, a 67' is the first year of 12 volt electrics and the last year for the old style bumpers, interior, dash etc; making it the most desired year. Almost all the rust is superficial, structurally the car is solid. I was expecting it to be rusted out and not worth my time but underneath it has very light rust, most of the undercoating is still there.

The car is not going to be restored, but slowly I will work on the rust.
hexagone
QUOTE(Aircooled @ Sep 7 2009, 09:43 AM) *
Almost all the rust is superficial, structurally the car is solid. I was expecting it to be rusted out and not worth my time but underneath it has very light rust, most of the undercoating is still there.

The car is not going to be restored, but slowly I will work on the rust.


lol.

I'm sorry, but once there is rust on the surface- there is 3x more of it underneath. Most of the time it's rust that builds from the inside out.

Now if you start working on the rust- I sure hope you have awesome welding skills because there will be a lot of it required. And once you have it welded all up (if ever)- then you'll realize you want to do bodywork. And then after the body work you figure you could actually get it nice. And then lots more.

In turn, you'll be out of thousands of dollars very soon unless you have very strict limits as to what you actually want this car to be. I speak from experience. smile.gif
fiber optic
It looks like somebody already got to the windshield wiper motor. sad.gif I need one for the 12V conversion on my '57.
Aircooled
QUOTE(fiber optic @ Sep 7 2009, 05:17 PM) *
It looks like somebody already got to the windshield wiper motor. sad.gif I need one for the 12V conversion on my '57.


Its actually laying next to the sponge on the one fender in the 2nd pic. It was in the trunk with a lot of other parts. It's not for sale though, one of the reasons I got an entire car instead of a pan was for mud running in the rain. biggrin.gif
fiber optic
QUOTE(Aircooled @ Sep 7 2009, 04:23 PM) *
Its actually laying next to the sponge on the one fender in the 2nd pic. It was in the trunk with a lot of other parts. It's not for sale though, one of the reasons I got an entire car instead of a pan was for mud running in the rain. biggrin.gif


Bastard
fiber optic
QUOTE(Aircooled @ Sep 7 2009, 10:44 AM) *
EDIT: Guess what year it is, if you win, you will get a present.



QUOTE(fiber optic @ Sep 7 2009, 11:31 AM) *
That's a '67



QUOTE(Aircooled @ Sep 7 2009, 12:43 PM) *
It is indeed a '67



What's my prize?
Aircooled
I need your address.
fiber optic
QUOTE(Aircooled @ Sep 8 2009, 10:24 AM) *
I need your address.


If it's a severed head I'm going to be very upset.

(Are you really going to send me something?)
Aircooled
A little cleaner!


A little blurry since it was raining pretty good, and I rushed it. Didn't want the dslr soaked.




Since it wasn't getting spark, I figured my condensor was bad so I took off the distributor off looking to find the number on it. I put it back on and turned the engine over a couple times and I was like what the hell, the points aren't opening. I gapped the points correctly and she fired up! So I started working on the brakes, since those dont work either, and I was trying to bleed one of the rear brakes and I wasn't getting nothing, the level in the resovoir wasn't really changing either, so maybe I have bad lines and/or master cyl. So I'll see what I can do next weekend...
fiber optic
Putting the decklid spring back on and getting the gap right was a complete pain for me. Good to hear your ignition problem was easy to fix.
Aircooled
Yeah I was fighting the decklid for awhile then I looked it up on the intarweb and learned a rather easy way of putting it on. Adjusting the points wasn't too bad. I adjusted like 3 times because I had the gap set but the little bar that rides on the cam wasn't against the cam. It took me a couple times to realize what was going on. I woulda taken more photos but I was working in the rain and just wanted the thing to run.
fiber optic
QUOTE(Aircooled @ Sep 12 2009, 05:01 PM) *
Yeah I was fighting the decklid for awhile then I looked it up on the intarweb and learned a rather easy way of putting it on. Adjusting the points wasn't too bad. I adjusted like 3 times because I had the gap set but the little bar that rides on the cam wasn't against the cam. It took me a couple times to realize what was going on. I woulda taken more photos but I was working in the rain and just wanted the thing to run.


What's the easy way of putting it on? My technique involved a lot of holding it up on my head while I put all my strength into flexing the spring.

I'd never set any points before I did the rebuild on my distributor. I suspect it's a lot easier to do with the distributor out of the car.
Aircooled
The technique that I used is first you clip the spring into its holes in the deck lid. From there you lift up the decklid and align the spring into its notch. Then you push/lean it towards one of the hinges and someone else screws the decklid to the hinge, you then manhandle it to line up with the other hinge. The distributor was still in the engine when I did it. I have never adjusted points on a lone distributor before.
fiber optic
QUOTE(Aircooled @ Sep 12 2009, 11:32 PM) *
and someone else screws the decklid to the hinge


Ahhh the 3rd hand technique. thumbs_up.gif
I did it by myself and probably was quite the sight to the neighbors.
moe
Oh shit Fiber, you live in Huntsvile? My best friend just started working there a few months back. Kept telling me how much he hates the damned place.
fiber optic
QUOTE(moe @ Sep 13 2009, 08:49 AM) *
Oh shit Fiber, you live in Huntsvile? My best friend just started working there a few months back. Kept telling me how much he hates the damned place.


Tell him not to leave "the bubble" of Huntsville. It gets much worse, particularly if he's a brownie. It's even bad for me, mostly because I think they can tell I'm not a southern native.
DB9
QUOTE(fiber optic @ Sep 13 2009, 11:12 AM) *
Tell him not to leave "the bubble" of Huntsville. It gets much worse, particularly if he's a brownie. It's even bad for me, mostly because I think they can tell I'm not a southern native.


Theres this guy I used to know that I believe lives in Huntsville. Hes definitely in Alabama though. His dad owns an Aston Martin, last time I talked to him.
moe
QUOTE(fiber optic @ Sep 13 2009, 08:12 PM) *
Tell him not to leave "the bubble" of Huntsville. It gets much worse, particularly if he's a brownie. It's even bad for me, mostly because I think they can tell I'm not a southern native.


Haha, yeah he'd stick out like a sorethumb. He's very Eurotrashy. I'm sure the bright, Ducati, and the completely blacked-out Crossfire don't do him any favors.
SwissWhiskey
Only reason I ever went to Huntsville was to look at rockets, though the spacecenter aint bad.
Aircooled
I was working on the brakes yesterday.


I found the front passenger side had a bad shoe. The friction pad was slid up to the wheel cylinder and with very little effort I got it off the from the steel backing. (Bottom shoe). After much bleeding I was still not getting any fluid which leads me to believe the rubber line may have internally collapsed, which a VW friend of mine says is pretty common.


The wheel cylinder was frozen on the front driver side.



Towards the end of the day I was bleeding the brakes and I pushed the pedal down real hard and I heard a pop and the pedal went to the floor. A small 6" line burst. And the one fitting is frozen on it. (The one to the left of the wrench) Might have to torch it to get it off, we'll see next weekend.
fiber optic
How long had this been sitting before you got it?
moe
This is the first time I've actually seen the car due to the retarded UAE censors blocking Flickr. What's your plan for this? It looks like it's going to be an epic (in the true sense of the word) project if you ever plan to get it on the road.
fiber optic
It really doesn't look very rough. I think mine started much worse.
Aircooled
QUOTE(fiber optic @ Sep 20 2009, 05:26 PM) *
How long had this been sitting before you got it?


I'm not sure exactly, I'd give it a minimum of 10 years.


QUOTE(moe @ Sep 20 2009, 05:39 PM) *
This is the first time I've actually seen the car due to the retarded UAE censors blocking Flickr. What's your plan for this? It looks like it's going to be an epic (in the true sense of the word) project if you ever plan to get it on the road.


Right now I want it to run and stop so I can drive it around in the woods. I may get it on the road one day. The car has no title and PA doesn't issue titles for cars. The guy I bought it from said that this one state gives out titles for vehicles, I think it was Georgia, I might look into that If I want to get it on the road.

I just realized the passenger side is missing half (length wise) of the heater channel, which in my book would be harder/more labor intensive then say doing a Suburu motor swap. Mind that I don't want to spend a ton of money on this car as I still want to get an e30.
Aircooled
$272 spent on all new brake lines, flex hoses, shoes, wheel cylinders, and the fuel tap that screws to the bottom of the tank...

Probably wont get the parts this weekend, but it doesn't matter since I have a test and two papers due next week. We'll see how long it will take to install all the lines hoses and the gas tank installed. I'm hoping to have it done next weekend, but that might be a long shot.
goota
so... much.... rust!!!!
fiber optic
QUOTE(goota @ Sep 26 2009, 11:02 AM) *
so... much.... rust!!!!


pipe down california boy
Aircooled
PARTS CAME!


So I redid front brakes.

Before


After
(Forgot to take Picture, next weekend...)

Old brake stuff


New brake stuff


My kinda artsy photo.



Then I went to take rear axle nut off, then this happened.


Went to Sears, exchanged it, and got a new impact wrench while we were there.

Torched it some before attempting to get it off this time.


And they came off.


Things learned
Flare nut wrenches are absolutely essential when doing brake work.
You get what you pay for when it come to impact wrenches.
One should oil and work the shoe adjusters till they loose before reassembling brakes.
You can never have enough paper towels, ESPECIALLY when packing the hubs.
fiber optic
Haha the hot wrench works every time.
Aircooled
So I worked on the rear brakes this past weekend.

Here's what I was greeted with on the driver's side.




It was extremely hard to get the hub off, it was pretty much rusted tight. It explains why the car was hard to roll. Look at all the rust/brake dust in the hub.


After putting the shoes and master cylinder in.



My rather messy and caveman-like working area.


Not the best at brake line bending, but it works.
The 1st person to find the VW logo in this pic gets a prize.




Passenger side- Note the wear pattern on the shoes.




The thin side.


After.


Me and my neighbor bled them and I was very excited at this point, hoping I could drive it today.
I got rid of my temp gas tank in the engine bay. I took my portable air tank and blew out the fuel line, it blew horrid smelling super stale gas all over the engine bay and the ground. I hooked up the gas tank and cautiously poured some gas in. Sure enough some gas leaked out, and not from around the threads but some tiny holes.




I'm going to try one of those gas tank repair kits...
fiber optic
VW logo is on the heater tube so now you owe me 2 prizes.

EDIT: Or back on the frame horn(?) above your support stand?
Aircooled
On Friday I pulled the sender and took a look around with a flashlight a mirror, the tank looks immaculate except at the very bottom of the tank at the outlet. I used a repair kit on the holes and it seemed to do the job pretty well. Here is a crappy pic of the little kidney shaped patch of rust.



While it was curing I went out for dinner and when I came back I installed the tank. By then it had gotten dark out. Me and my dad were excited to for its first test drive. Put some gas in it, ran it off of starter fluid for several seconds for the pump to fill up the lines and carb and took off. I did a little lap around the property and I let my dad take the wheel. We were going around another lap and there was a semi loud creaking noise coming from driver side front. My dad asked if I put the wheel bearing and associated parts back right, and I was like idk it was first time I ever did it. We stopped on a level patch of ground I got out and looked at the wheel, by now it is almost completely dark and I could hardly see a thing. We went a little further then turned around all the while it kept getting worse and worse. We were around 60 feet from where we were going to park it and all of the sudden bang, the front dipped down. It was fairly obvious after getting out and seeing a tire laying flat on the ground what had happened. Some master mechanic must have forgotten a very important part when putting the brake/hub/wheel back on. :roll: In the light of a flashlight we jacked the front up and put the tire on stealing a lug stud from the other 3 wheels and torquing them properly this time.

On saturday I walked the distance I drove the car and found 3 outta the 5 lugs. I changed the plugs and found them to be pretty sooty.


The car was having idle issues, and the idle adjuster screw was all the out already but the idle still seems low. Seems to be improved with the new plugs. When the throttle is goosed hard the engine cuts out, a gradual transition to full throttle does not have this problem. I think the accelerator pump may not be working, I pulled out my mirror and could not see fuel squirting out when I goose the throttle. Valve train is pretty noisy, I'm sure it is overdue for a valve adjustment.

Also the car needs the e brake fixed. When I was driving it uphill, in the dark, around a turn, it cut out. Starting the car, which requires is tap on the gas, is pretty hairy. I need to bleed the brakes again, it takes a quick pump to build pressure in the system. I also started to do some minor things (ha, there is so much other work to do) like hook up the lights to the speedo and fuel gauge as well as get the glovebox latch/button working (it was frozen in the open position).
Altostratus
that is the most fouled sparkplug i have ever seen
Synesthesia
Haha this car is so messed up, I like your style.
fiber optic
What plugs and gap are you running? Stock ignition system?
Aircooled
I didn't measure the gap on the sooty plugs I pulled but I recall they were champions I believe. I replaced them with the standard WR8ACs. Ignition system appears to be stock.
Aircooled


Has some sort of a flat spot, I've adjusted the timing and it doesn't go away. If the choke is closed a little bit it goes away and I get great response. Prolly needs some different jetting.
fiber optic
Is the vacuum advance working? Vacuum leak somewhere? Is the timing steady or jittery?

Here's my hacked up dashboard that I mentioned on IRC the other day:

Aircooled
QUOTE(fiber optic @ Nov 8 2009, 03:57 PM) *
Is the vacuum advance working? Vacuum leak somewhere? Is the timing steady or jittery?

Here's my hacked up dashboard that I mentioned on IRC the other day:



Vacuum advance works, I rev it up, and the notch on the pulley goes to the left an inch or two. Timing is pretty steady. I'm not sure if my accelerator pump is working, I didn't see any fuel squirt up when I looked down the throat. Sorry to see that cut up dash.
fiber optic
QUOTE(Aircooled @ Nov 8 2009, 06:36 PM) *
Vacuum advance works, I rev it up, and the notch on the pulley goes to the left an inch or two. Timing is pretty steady. I'm not sure if my accelerator pump is working, I didn't see any fuel squirt up when I looked down the throat. Sorry to see that cut up dash.


Accelerator pump would definitely cause that delay.

I cut up the dash 14 or so years ago when we built the car. That and the stupid 1-piece windows. sad.gif
Aircooled
Progress.



Wait there is none, its under snow!
Altostratus
you americans hogged all the snow this winter sad.gif
Razor
QUOTE(Altostratus @ Feb 15 2010, 10:51 AM) *
you americans hogged all the snow this winter sad.gif


I'm in Maine and they (in the Mid-Atlantic States) have more then we have up here. sad.gif
Altostratus
I know where Maine is you foreskin.

also, that's fucked. (the snow)
porsche944
he never said you or anyone didnt... you penis wrinkle!
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