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Bjorn
So, for the first time in my life I have to be worried about engine brake-in.

This was partially inspired by Easton's Elise thread, but it is something which has been on my mind since signing the paperwork for the new Legacy.

What have you heard? What is completely B.S. and what should you absolutely not do ever?

I have heard two theories;

The first is the soft break-in, where for the first couple thousand kilometres you drive nice and granny-like, keeping the revs low, while varying the engine speed as much as possible.

The second theory is the hard break-in, where you cane the mo-fo, while varying the engine speed as much as possible.

What have you heard about these two philosophies, and have you heard about anything else?

I kinda feel like this is a question for the mythbusters...since who else could afford to potentially destroy an engine in the name of science?
dukenukem
Refer to your user manual for company suggested break in procedure. Personally, I tried the easy break in method and all I really did was drive normally while not going over 4000 rpm for first 1000 miles as much as i could. I still went over it while merging on freeways or having to accelerate hard at certain times but I didnt rev my engine to redline. My car does not burn a single drop of fuel which is quite excellent for a turbo 4 engine.
clarkma5
All I've ever heard for every engine I've been exposed to is 1000 miles, avoid full throttle, keep revs below 4000 RPM, avoid long periods of constant revs.
moe
My manual didn't have running-in instructions, and a call to my dealer confirmed that there really aren't any for 1.6L 3s. All they said was make sure the car had it's first oil-change/service at 1500km. So I didn't bother breaking the car in, and just went to the dealer at 1500. Four years later, the only reliability problem I've had is the clutch cylinder failing.
MustangAficionado
QUOTE(clarkma5 @ Jun 6 2009, 01:03 PM) *
All I've ever heard for every engine I've been exposed to is 1000 miles, avoid full throttle, keep revs below 4000 RPM, avoid long periods of constant revs.

+1, and i use non-synthetic for that period and switch it out after 1k miles. That's how im breaking in my forged shortblock.
fiber optic
What are you tying to 'break-in'?

I'll be running my motor at a couple thousand RPM. This will provide enough oil to the camshaft so the lobes and lifters can work harden for the 20 minute break-in period. After that I'll drain the oil, replace the filter, and let the motor cool. Readjust the valves the next morning, dial in the carbs, install it in the car and drive it like I don't have nearly 10 large in it. Drain oil, replace filter, and recheck valves at 500 miles. Then to 3000 mile oil change intervals after that.
Bjorn
$10,000 in the engine, or engine and car?

I'm wondering about the break-in for the new Legacy...but I will probably just follow the manufacturers advice...It's just that I have heard other theories, like the hard break-in where you cane the car for the first couple hundred kilometres.
fiber optic
QUOTE(Bjorn @ Jun 7 2009, 01:02 PM) *
$10,000 in the engine, or engine and car?


Almost 10k in the motor, much more in the rest of the car.
Aircooled



There you have it, no breaking in at all.
OHirtenfelder
As far as I've been told , don't drive the nuts off the car, but don't drive like a baby either. GIve it horns but don't redline it.
If you do the whole granny driving thing, the engine settles into this 'lazy' style of driving, and becomes a lazy engine. The engine needs to be revved up and down, etc, to make it more 'flexible'. That's definitely the way I would drive my car if I got a new one.
Easton
QUOTE(OHirtenfelder @ Jun 8 2009, 06:25 PM) *
As far as I've been told , don't drive the nuts off the car, but don't drive like a baby either. GIve it horns but don't redline it.
If you do the whole granny driving thing, the engine settles into this 'lazy' style of driving, and becomes a lazy engine. The engine needs to be revved up and down, etc, to make it more 'flexible'. That's definitely the way I would drive my car if I got a new one.


Thats exactly what i'm doing, twice today out of 100kms of driving i redlined it, maybe 10 times i went up to 4.5k rpm and for the rest of the time it was always cruising and normal driving speeds.

I'm trying to think of it like stretching it's legs but in moderation so as not to break it. I guess i'm just hedging my bets :)
Aircooled
I found this the other night, its recommendation is to flog the shit out of it.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
nismo
Also, if you buy a new car, and break it, i'm assuming it has a warranty, but I personally have NEVER heard of any mishaps with beating on a new car. Hell, I bought the S2000 with 29 miles on the clock, and when i test drove it, I gave it hell. And since then, (30,000 miles later), absolutely no issues.
Bjorn
^It actually became a non issue. Subaru engines get broken in before they go in the car.
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