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Dieselstation Car Forums _ User's Rides _ Seat Leon Cupra R

Posted by: 350Z Nov 1 2010, 04:31 AM

Im at work at the moment but will update with pics asap, like moes new car its a turbocharged 4 cylinder thats from europe, it is avaliable in forza 3 and wasn't sold in the US as far as I know. It is a little bigger than the focus I had before and is another 4 door hatch anyway picked it up on saturday and so far have loved every minute of owning it.

Posted by: moe Nov 1 2010, 05:24 AM

Seat Leon FR or Cupra, do I get a prize?

EDIT: It's the Cupra because the FR wasn't in Forza.

Good choice, sexier than the the Golf, and cheaper too. Unless you got it in white...then it just looks like an egg.



Posted by: Cyclone Nov 1 2010, 07:35 AM

Not a 350Z? Your name is false advertising.

Posted by: 350Z Nov 1 2010, 09:06 AM

You got it moe, old one though. It's a 55 plate LCR 225 in silver.

Cyclone think of my name like porschedreams, hopefully one day.

Posted by: moe Nov 1 2010, 09:18 AM

^ You gave away too much info, too quickly. Four-cylinder turbo European hatch...the possibilities are endless. It's a five-door, okay still plenty of those...bigger than a Focus, and not on sale in the US. That really only left two cars, the Octavia RS and the Seat Leon FR/Cupra. Forza confirmed it being a Seat.

EDIT: Did you get this shape?



If so, you are my hero. A friend of mine totaled his non-Cupra version, but I always loved the way it looked.

Posted by: bankE46 Nov 1 2010, 10:08 AM

QUOTE(350Z @ Nov 1 2010, 01:06 PM) *
Cyclone think of my name like porschedreams, hopefully one day.


350's aren't really that expensive anymore.. one with 50-60k miles can be had for as low as $13-14k, even here in new england.

Posted by: 350Z Nov 1 2010, 10:12 AM

Yeah thats the one Moe love it!



QUOTE(bankE46 @ Nov 1 2010, 06:08 PM) *
350's aren't really that expensive anymore.. one with 50-60k miles can be had for as low as $13-14k, even here in new england.


The buying cost of the 350Z isn't the problem it's insurance and running costs, I will however look at one in about 2 years.

Posted by: moe Nov 1 2010, 10:26 AM

QUOTE(bankE46 @ Nov 1 2010, 10:08 PM) *
350's aren't really that expensive anymore.. one with 50-60k miles can be had for as low as $13-14k, even here in new england.


Yeah but he lives in Old England, where insurance and stuff is a bitch.

Also 350, is it a Cupra, or a Cupra R?

Posted by: misnblu Nov 1 2010, 10:53 AM

Nice ride and can't wait to see some pics.
Congrats on the purchase and enjoy. thumbs_up.gif

Posted by: 350Z Nov 1 2010, 11:01 AM

QUOTE(moe @ Nov 1 2010, 06:26 PM) *
Yeah but he lives in Old England, where insurance and stuff is a bitch.

Also 350, is it a Cupra, or a Cupra R?

It's a Cupra R and its the 225 not the 210. The car cost 8000 for an example with 33,000 miles and insurance is 1300, a 350Z was 9000 with 36,000k miles and insurance was 2500.

Posted by: moe Nov 1 2010, 11:09 AM

*Flamesuit on* I'd rather have a Cupra R than a 350...

Posted by: 350Z Nov 1 2010, 11:55 AM

For those numbers I prefered the Cupra R too.

Posted by: bankE46 Nov 1 2010, 12:19 PM

sweet jesus thats expensive. Even as a young male driver, I'm only paying $1200/yr for insurance on my M3. I can see why you wouldn't want to get stuck with that kind of a bill! O_O

Posted by: dukenukem Nov 1 2010, 12:53 PM

Just have the noise of a vacuum cleaner blasting at full volume from your car's speakers. Tadaaa .. now you are inside a 350Z.


Congratulations on the new car!

Posted by: misnblu Nov 1 2010, 06:49 PM

QUOTE(dukenukem @ Nov 1 2010, 03:53 PM) *
Just have the noise of a vacuum cleaner blasting at full volume from your car's speakers. Tadaaa .. now you are inside a 350Z.


Congratulations on the new car!


Such hate of the 350Z. Raspberry.gif
With the right exhaust they sound pretty sic.

Posted by: dukenukem Nov 1 2010, 07:09 PM

QUOTE(misnblu @ Nov 1 2010, 09:49 PM) *
Such hate of the 350Z. Raspberry.gif
With the right exhaust they sound pretty sic.

I don't hate the car, I just hate the stock exhaust note. I drove one for 2 weeks a while back ... great car except the vacuum cleaner soundtrack.

Posted by: 350Z Nov 2 2010, 02:00 AM

Well here she is! She needs a clean but in the winter over here it's only light for a few hours and rains every 15 minutes so it will have to wait till the weekend.










Posted by: moe Nov 2 2010, 03:06 AM

^ My seats are cooler than yours tongue.gif Not a big fan of the silver, but otherwise I love it.

Posted by: 350Z Nov 2 2010, 03:23 AM

Your seats are cooler than everybodys! My cars faster though. tongue.gif

Posted by: moe Nov 2 2010, 03:29 AM

^ You win...this time.

Posted by: b0mb3r Nov 2 2010, 05:13 AM

nice! pardon the ignorance but which VW is this based on?

Posted by: moe Nov 2 2010, 05:39 AM

Golf IV

Posted by: Bjorn Nov 2 2010, 06:24 AM

We should make a list of all the cool cars on DS.

There are so many right now.


Posted by: fiber optic Nov 2 2010, 06:39 AM

QUOTE(Bjorn @ Nov 2 2010, 09:24 AM) *
We should make a list of all the cool cars on DS.

There are so many right now.


I'm waiting until my junk is drivable before submitting it to the cool wall.

Posted by: misnblu Nov 2 2010, 06:45 AM

Very nice ride man.
I didn't know Seat's were so popular since we never see anything like this in the States. My only familiarity is with seeing the name on the GranTurismo games so there's not much information on the brand in our part of the world.
Nice seats and love the red stitching, nice touch.
There also looks to be some performance in the car too with the red caliper and R designation.
Congratulations again. thumbs_up.gif

Posted by: moe Nov 2 2010, 11:30 AM

^ The Leon is surprisingly popular in the UAE. The rest of the range...not so much. You do see the odd Altea around, but that's about it.

Posted by: anvancy Nov 3 2010, 10:11 PM

That is one sweet ride.Love the seats.To me they suit the car's personality.

Congratulations.

Anvancy

Posted by: 350Z Dec 19 2010, 07:24 AM

Update:

Not as interesting as Mustangs as most of my upgrade is ECU related but I still had to fit a couple of parts to make sure it could handle the remap, should take it up from 225 to around 260.



Engine bay now set up for a sub if I feel the need.



Forge intake pipe as the standard one is prone to collapse after a remap.



Got some nice mats too!


Posted by: MustangAficionado Dec 19 2010, 10:17 AM

Gotta love turbo cars and their upgrades.
thumbs_up.gif

Posted by: 350Z Apr 3 2011, 03:03 AM

Small cosmetic tweak but I prefer them to the old red ones.





Some photos of my car with a few of my friends cars.

170Bhp FR TDI



Ibiza Cupra



Original Mini!!


Posted by: moe Apr 4 2011, 10:29 AM

My best-friend is deciding between a brand-new FR or a Clio RS. He just had his mind-blown during a test-drive of the Clio RS. For all FWD haters, this is a guy that just got rid of his modded E90 325. Couldn't believe how intense the RS was, the steering feel was beyond belief, as was the handling. I can't wait to drive it...worried I may not feel the same about the Pug afterwards.

Posted by: speedyK Oct 8 2011, 02:29 AM

^^^ Have you driven it yet, Moe?

I tried an RS with the Cup chassis yesterday and it was great. Almost Lotus Exige Cup levels of feel and control — I'm sold thumbs_up.gif

Posted by: moe Oct 17 2011, 03:52 AM

Haha yeah, we exchanged cars on a drive we did a while back. I wasn't a fan of the shifter, but other than that it was sublime. My friend doesn't have a cup chassis, but still amazingly stable. The steering is ultra precise with great feedback, and a lot of stability. I swapped back to my Peugeot after driving it, and the same things the RS did without breaking a sweat, made my car feel like it was on the edge of losing control, or toppling over...or something. Not as much feel in the Peugeot either.

We kind of had a mini-Top Gear Arabia session where we all drove up to the mountains in our cars, exchanged them, then drove some more. Met up at points, and exchanged our views. The Z4M Roadster one of my friends recently bought stole the show though. The acceleration was just brutal compared to the hatches, and the noise was glorious. Also helped that it was a beautiful summer day, and it was a convertible.

Posted by: 350Z Nov 8 2011, 07:13 AM

All the badges are now black.



Couple of toys arrived too.




Posted by: 350Z Nov 11 2011, 01:02 AM

Got everything fitted and im happy, I didn't realise but the car actually had a crappy map on it already so it was flashed back to standard and then an adjustable map was put on, gains all round so im happy with the results.

Orange is the old map red is standard and blue is the new map with the bolt ons, timing at 4 and boost set to 6.


Posted by: Bjorn Nov 11 2011, 04:18 PM

Am I reading that wrong . . . 285 ft/lb of torque?

Posted by: 350Z Nov 12 2011, 04:12 AM

Thats correct.

287.4 lbft of torque

254.2 bhp

Posted by: Razor Nov 12 2011, 10:04 AM

QUOTE(350Z @ Nov 12 2011, 07:12 AM) *
Thats correct.

287.4 lbft of torque

254.2 bhp


Hot damn... what does that leave you with for performance figures? 0-100 kmph, etc?

Posted by: 350Z Nov 12 2011, 01:08 PM

Not sure how accurate this is but it's the best I have at the moment, it reads 5.8 btw.


Posted by: Altostratus Nov 13 2011, 12:50 PM

sweet!

Posted by: 350Z Dec 3 2011, 08:35 AM

New bits arrived today.





Points to the person who knows what they both are, first is simple and the second less so.

Posted by: shandyman5 Dec 3 2011, 10:04 AM

QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 3 2011, 11:35 AM) *
New bits arrived today.





Points to the person who knows what they both are, first is simple and the second less so.


First is a strut tower bar...

Second is some type of bypass.... or hose kit.... At first I thought some type of diverter valve, but it isn't that... Not quite sure.

Posted by: b0mb3r Dec 3 2011, 10:27 AM

looks like a baffled catch can for the PCV system.

Posted by: Altostratus Dec 3 2011, 01:10 PM

oil catch can and upper strut brace.

Posted by: 350Z Dec 4 2011, 05:04 AM

They are front upper strut brace and an oil catch tank so you all got it.

Here is the brace sanded down and ready for a respray.



Also had to grind this corner down as the brace is from an Audi S3 and doesn't clear the bonnet lifter.



This is the bay as it stands right at this moment, I was thinking of going a bit 'showcar-ish' and doing everything in black and silver including sanding down the charge pipe and intake manifold so they are silver/chrome.



Also lost part of my badge so I was thinking about taking the letters off completely. Thoughts?


Posted by: Bjorn Dec 4 2011, 05:12 AM

Without the "H" how will people know it's a Honda?

On a more serious note . . . I don't see any bolts on your strut towers. Maybe it's just the pic angle, but if not, how do you plan on attaching the brace?

Posted by: moe Dec 4 2011, 05:28 AM

"H" for Honda, are you being sarcastic Leif?

Posted by: 350Z Dec 4 2011, 06:40 AM

QUOTE(Bjorn @ Dec 4 2011, 01:12 PM) *
Without the "H" how will people know it's a Honda?

On a more serious note . . . I don't see any bolts on your strut towers. Maybe it's just the pic angle, but if not, how do you plan on attaching the brace?

I plan to drill the struts, I don't really see another option?

Posted by: Bjorn Dec 4 2011, 07:16 AM

QUOTE(moe @ Dec 4 2011, 07:28 AM) *
"H" for Honda, are you being sarcastic Leif?


It's a Simpsons reference. The H gets stolen off of principal Skinner's Honda . . .


QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 4 2011, 08:40 AM) *
I plan to drill the struts, I don't really see another option?


You might want to consider welding it. I'm certainly no expert, but wouldn't drilling the towers mess with their integrity (especially if you're then going to be subjecting them to load)?

Posted by: 350Z Dec 4 2011, 08:21 AM

If the Audi S3 has a pretty much identical engine bay and has the brace bolted into the struts I see no reason to think the Leon struts can't have the same set up, also I can't really see how the struts could lose their integrity from having three holes in them.

Posted by: shandyman5 Dec 4 2011, 10:26 AM

QUOTE(Bjorn @ Dec 4 2011, 10:16 AM) *
It's a Simpsons reference. The H gets stolen off of principal Skinner's Honda . . .




You might want to consider welding it. I'm certainly no expert, but wouldn't drilling the towers mess with their integrity (especially if you're then going to be subjecting them to load)?


It wouldn't affect the strength of the tower, but welding it is a good alternative.

Posted by: 350Z Dec 4 2011, 12:52 PM

Welding is too permenant.

Posted by: shandyman5 Dec 4 2011, 01:32 PM

QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 4 2011, 03:52 PM) *
Welding is too permenant.


It is no different than drilling holes in the tower in terms of "permanence"

You take it off to sell and another buyer will know you had one installed.

Posted by: 350Z Dec 4 2011, 02:07 PM

You serious? If I want to change anything then bolts are far easier to remove and then put back.

Posted by: shandyman5 Dec 4 2011, 03:45 PM

QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 4 2011, 05:07 PM) *
You serious? If I want to change anything then bolts are far easier to remove and then put back.


I think we interpreted what was said above differently... I meant it is just as permanent looking when holes are drilled because if it is removed you can still tell a tower bar was there... Of course welding it does not allow ease of removal like a bolted in one.

Posted by: dukenukem Dec 4 2011, 07:13 PM

What kind of sway/ anti roll bar are you running on the car? I would look into upgrading that if required before drilling into the strut.

Posted by: 350Z Dec 4 2011, 11:33 PM

26mm front and 25 mm rear non ajustable ARB's from H&R.

Posted by: dukenukem Dec 5 2011, 07:42 AM

QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 5 2011, 01:33 AM) *
26mm front and 25 mm rear non ajustable ARB's from H&R.

Do you want the strut tower bar for performance or because it looks nice?

Posted by: 350Z Dec 5 2011, 08:19 AM

Bit of both, strut brace does look good but a stiffer chassis is always nice to have, especially when you're putting alot more power down than the car was initially designed for. It's not going to be a track car if thats what you're alluding towards.

Posted by: dukenukem Dec 5 2011, 11:28 AM

QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 5 2011, 10:19 AM) *
Bit of both, strut brace does look good but a stiffer chassis is always nice to have, especially when you're putting alot more power down than the car was initially designed for. It's not going to be a track car if thats what you're alluding towards.


Are you noticing any chassis flex right now? What about a H-brace or chassis bracing of some sorts? In the Subaru world the strut tower brace does very little to add the the rigidity of the chassis. A rear X-brace is much better option. Not sure how things are in the Seat world.

Posted by: 350Z Dec 5 2011, 11:52 AM

Its funny you should say that because this arrived today, no prizes for guessing what it is.



It's actually a custom job so once the backing plates are in I can remove it should I need the whole boot.

Back to your question duke the only real option is either the braces or a full cage in the world of Seat. On a side note I just noticed that your Subaru has a massive difference in power between 91 and 93 octane are they two different maps? Do you think you would see the same sort of gains on 95 or 99?

Posted by: dukenukem Dec 5 2011, 12:00 PM

Yes, I had 2 custom maps for each octane of fuel. With 93Oct you can push the timing and boost higher than you can on 91 without having to worry about detonation (all other things being equal) so you get more power. So yes, higher the octane you have in your car the higher you can push your timing tables and more power you can safely make.

Posted by: 350Z Dec 5 2011, 12:08 PM

Can you swap between them whenever you want? The map I went with is similar but to be honest you need to start thinking about re building the internals with stronger rods, pistons ect if you're going to go above 300lb/ft.

Posted by: dukenukem Dec 5 2011, 12:17 PM

QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 5 2011, 02:08 PM) *
Can you swap between them whenever you want? The map I went with is similar but to be honest you need to start thinking about re building the internals with stronger rods, pistons ect if you're going to go above 300lb/ft.

Yes. For Subarus, we have a dedicated device called Accessport or a Tactrix cable that connects your laptop to the ECU and you can flash whatever map you want. For the EJ257 the weakest link are the pistons that can't handle detonation very well. Besides that they seem to handle 150-200hp over stock jsut fine so long as you keep the detonation in check.

http://cobbtuning.com/info/?id=4829

Posted by: 350Z Dec 5 2011, 12:36 PM

You considered WMI to help with that?

Posted by: shandyman5 Dec 5 2011, 12:36 PM

QUOTE(dukenukem @ Dec 5 2011, 03:17 PM) *
Yes. For Subarus, we have a dedicated device called Accessport or a Tactrix cable that connects your laptop to the ECU and you can flash whatever map you want. For the EJ257 the weakest link are the pistons that can't handle detonation very well. Besides that they seem to handle 150-200hp over stock jsut fine so long as you keep the detonation in check.

http://cobbtuning.com/info/?id=4829


Duke your spot on... just to confirm on your side of things.


EJ25's out of STi's need no internal work until you start hitting around 400whp. Tune depending, is what keeps the car in check until them... Some guys see 450whp on a stock engine but have great tunes, or are on borrowed time. Others have lost there motors at 380whp, do to over-advancing timing, or tuning tables past what is safe.

Posted by: dukenukem Dec 5 2011, 12:48 PM

QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 5 2011, 02:36 PM) *
You considered WMI to help with that?


What's that? As for my tune, it is very conservative and even on 93 map I can drive around on 91 oct gas just fine. Obviously, it would be a bad idea for me to drive it hard but I can get from A to B just fine.

Posted by: 350Z Dec 5 2011, 12:53 PM

Sorry it's water meth injection should at least help with any knocking, im seriously considering having with a hybrid turbo and then capping the boost to like 20ish psi with a manual boost controller to try and save my rods.

Posted by: dukenukem Dec 5 2011, 12:56 PM

QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 5 2011, 02:53 PM) *
Sorry it water meth injection should at least help with any knocking, im seriously considering having going with a hybrid turbo and then capping the boost to like 20ish psi with a manual boost controller to try and save my rods.


Oh yeah, Water/ Meth injection is very popular amongst Subaru crowds but I am still a bit wary about that setup on a daily driven car. If this was my weekend car, I would install the Aquamist setup and get an easy 30-40 whp more out of my tiny turbo.

Posted by: shandyman5 Dec 5 2011, 12:57 PM

QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 5 2011, 03:53 PM) *
Sorry it water meth injection should at least help with any knocking, im seriously considering having going with a hybrid turbo and then capping the boost to like 20ish psi with a manual boost controller to try and save my rods.


Meth + Boost= a perfect match when done and tuned right.

Posted by: 350Z Dec 5 2011, 01:05 PM

QUOTE(dukenukem @ Dec 5 2011, 08:56 PM) *
Oh yeah, Water/ Meth injection is very popular amongst Subaru crowds but I am still a bit wary about that setup on a daily driven car. If this was my weekend car, I would install the Aquamist setup and get an easy 30-40 whp more out of my tiny turbo.

You're in pretty much the same boat as me then, if I had another car and this was just a toy I could do so much more.

Posted by: dukenukem Dec 5 2011, 04:47 PM

QUOTE(350Z @ Dec 5 2011, 03:05 PM) *
You're in pretty much the same boat as me then, if I had another car and this was just a toy I could do so much more.

I have spent a boat load of cash on suspension instead. X.gif

Posted by: 350Z Dec 6 2011, 01:54 AM

Are you on coilovers? Who did you go with and how to they compare with the standard set up.

Posted by: dukenukem Dec 6 2011, 09:46 AM

I have AST 4100 coilovers that are custom damped for USDM STI by a company called Turninconcepts. Along with that I have 26mm front and 24mm rear solid anti roll bars from whiteline. the ride is very good for a coilover but you can definitely tell its not stock suspension.

Posted by: 350Z Jan 15 2012, 05:11 AM

Braces are in.




Posted by: dukenukem Jan 15 2012, 10:24 AM

So how does the car feel now?

Posted by: 350Z Jan 15 2012, 12:27 PM

Well the thing I noticed right away was when I was cleaning it I took the alloys off and jacking up the front right side lifts up the front left too so it's definitely stiffer.

Posted by: 350Z Jan 17 2012, 10:33 AM

Swapped the number plate bulbs over to LED's.



Gives a nice clean white light instead of yellow



Also got front LED's for the sidelights.



This is with the mains on too, you can't really see it but in person the sidelights are blue and the mains are more yellow which I really like.


Posted by: 350Z Jan 21 2012, 06:39 AM

Car was dirty.








Cleaned then treated with this.


Gives results like these.





Posted by: zeroSignal Jan 21 2012, 07:01 AM

Just sold my 04 Leon TDI, looking at your pics makes me miss it.

Posted by: Altostratus Jan 22 2012, 07:35 AM

MMMMMM werkstat

Posted by: 350Z Apr 3 2012, 06:32 AM

Update time:

Cleaning for the first time after winter.



Wheels off and brembos cleaned.



Alloys were very dirty.



Not for long.



Much better.



Some of my products on the bonnet of the beater I use to test them.



Seats out!





Made a lot easier with the new socket set.



Quite simple really, just remove these.



Then the two nuts at the front.



Slide back and tip so you can unplug the airbags.





In with the new!

They look similar but are so much better, the standard seats are some of the worst I have come across in a sporty car and this swap has fixed that and keeps the OEM+ look that I want.



Then to end the day I took my mate to pick up his new car.



Really happy for him its a lovely example with very low miles, a few of us are gonna get together with our cars over easter so I will upload some more pics of it then.



Posted by: b0mb3r Apr 3 2012, 09:56 AM

love the seats thumbs_up.gif

Posted by: 350Z Apr 6 2012, 12:07 PM

What do we have here?



Oh just 710 Bhp!



Couple more of the Renault.



Odd handbrake which apparently takes some getting used to.






Posted by: 350Z May 25 2012, 05:14 AM

Ordered some stuff for a minor service yesterday and it arrived today! Win!



Since it's been mapped I have decided to change the oil every 5K or six months and run a cooler set of plugs.

I have also recently noticed a real increase in intake temps recently due to the warmer weather when pressing on and you can really feel it while driving so im seriously considering a front mounted intercooler to replace the two side mounts.

Posted by: dukenukem May 29 2012, 11:39 AM

You can do other stuff like heat wrapping your exhaust piping and putting a turbo heat blanket to keep temps in the engine bay under control as well along with the FMIC

Posted by: 350Z May 29 2012, 01:48 PM

It could do with a 3" downpipe to be honest, standard system is somewhat restrictive.

Posted by: dukenukem May 29 2012, 02:02 PM

QUOTE(350Z @ May 29 2012, 04:48 PM) *
It could do with a 3" downpipe to be honest, standard system is somewhat restrictive.


Wrap up the piping with this.

http://www.amazon.com/010129-Titanium-Exhaust-Header-Wrap/dp/B002R4U7G4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1338328877&sr=8-2

Posted by: Altostratus May 31 2012, 03:23 PM

QUOTE(dukenukem @ May 29 2012, 02:02 PM) *
Wrap up the piping with this.

http://www.amazon.com/010129-Titanium-Exhaust-Header-Wrap/dp/B002R4U7G4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1338328877&sr=8-2

i have a roll of that.


im not sure why though.....

Posted by: 350Z Jun 6 2012, 09:30 AM

Added some wind deflectors.


Posted by: Mr b00st Jun 7 2012, 11:36 AM

water meth injection time. Heat soak is bad on K03 1.8T's, I imagine it's terrible on K04's even with TSMIC's. front mount will improve it but WMI will solve it.

Posted by: 350Z Jun 7 2012, 11:53 PM

Things I would do before water meth:

Exhaust

Intercooler

Mainfold

Coilovers

Hybrid Turbo

Rods pistons and valves

Posted by: dukenukem Jun 8 2012, 08:13 AM

A turbo blanket would go a long way to reduce heat soak, along with heat wrapping your exhaust.

Posted by: 350Z Jun 8 2012, 08:19 AM

No point in heat wrapping and exhaust that I intend to replace.

Posted by: clarkma5 Jun 8 2012, 08:38 AM

QUOTE
A turbo blanket would go a long way to reduce heat soak, along with heat wrapping your exhaust.


I'm having trouble seeing the logical reasoning behind this, though I don't doubt that you may be onto something. Heat soak is due to the intercooler becoming saturated with heat, and it's located in the passenger side fender in the intake tract between the turbo and the engine inlet. Sure the turbo transmits some heat from the exhaust to the intake since they cross there, and also due to the work that the turbine is doing on the intake air, but how does heatwrapping one's exhaust help? The exhaust and the intake/intercooler sections are pretty well separated in the MkIV 1.8T transverse packaging, and it seems like heatwrapping the exhaust might just make the turbo transfer even more heat into the intake stream. Would it be because the waste heat from the exhaust heats up the part of the intake that runs behind the engine and through the turbo area?

Also, http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Engine/Intercooler/Forge/ES1832080/

I keep pondering that as a mild SMIC upgrade for stock or chipped K03 applications. Or you can do two of those with the AWZ-style twin IC setup perhaps.

And one more thought. I've been running one of these http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Exterior/Body/Fender/ES251342/ for a few years now and I do feel like I really haven't had noticeable heat soak issues since then. However I've also moved to a cooler climate and probably done less aggressive driving in warm weather than I used to so that should be taken with a grain of salt...

Posted by: dukenukem Jun 8 2012, 09:20 AM

QUOTE(clarkma5 @ Jun 8 2012, 11:38 AM) *
I'm having trouble seeing the logical reasoning behind this, though I don't doubt that you may be onto something. Heat soak is due to the intercooler becoming saturated with heat, and it's located in the passenger side fender in the intake tract between the turbo and the engine inlet. Sure the turbo transmits some heat from the exhaust to the intake since they cross there, and also due to the work that the turbine is doing on the intake air, but how does heatwrapping one's exhaust help? The exhaust and the intake/intercooler sections are pretty well separated in the MkIV 1.8T transverse packaging, and it seems like heatwrapping the exhaust might just make the turbo transfer even more heat into the intake stream. Would it be because the waste heat from the exhaust heats up the part of the intake that runs behind the engine and through the turbo area?

Also, http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Engine/Intercooler/Forge/ES1832080/

I keep pondering that as a mild SMIC upgrade for stock or chipped K03 applications. Or you can do two of those with the AWZ-style twin IC setup perhaps.

And one more thought. I've been running one of these http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Exterior/Body/Fender/ES251342/ for a few years now and I do feel like I really haven't had noticeable heat soak issues since then. However I've also moved to a cooler climate and probably done less aggressive driving in warm weather than I used to so that should be taken with a grain of salt...


the whole idea of heat wrapping is to keep temperatures in the engine bay at a minimum when there isnt enough air circulating through it (idle, slow speeds in traffic, etc) The idea behind heat wrapping the exhaust is to keep heat in the pipes and not in the engine bay, which according to some people also helps with keeping exhaust velocity high (hotter gas flow faster). How much does that help would depend a lot on applications.

Also, turbos don't give out some heat, they give out a lot of heat. In Subaru applications with our TMIC, heat soak is a bitch and turbo blankets help a LOT. Even with FMIC, since the cold air piping comes close to the turbo, a blanket makes sure the cold air doesnt get heated by ambient temps in the engine bay by reducing the heat coming from the source.

I will make this post more coherent later.

Posted by: 350Z Jun 8 2012, 09:33 AM

QUOTE(clarkma5 @ Jun 8 2012, 05:38 PM) *
I'm having trouble seeing the logical reasoning behind this, though I don't doubt that you may be onto something. Heat soak is due to the intercooler becoming saturated with heat, and it's located in the passenger side fender in the intake tract between the turbo and the engine inlet. Sure the turbo transmits some heat from the exhaust to the intake since they cross there, and also due to the work that the turbine is doing on the intake air, but how does heatwrapping one's exhaust help? The exhaust and the intake/intercooler sections are pretty well separated in the MkIV 1.8T transverse packaging, and it seems like heatwrapping the exhaust might just make the turbo transfer even more heat into the intake stream. Would it be because the waste heat from the exhaust heats up the part of the intake that runs behind the engine and through the turbo area?

Also, http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Engine/Intercooler/Forge/ES1832080/

I keep pondering that as a mild SMIC upgrade for stock or chipped K03 applications. Or you can do two of those with the AWZ-style twin IC setup perhaps.

And one more thought. I've been running one of these http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/Exterior/Body/Fender/ES251342/ for a few years now and I do feel like I really haven't had noticeable heat soak issues since then. However I've also moved to a cooler climate and probably done less aggressive driving in warm weather than I used to so that should be taken with a grain of salt...


The problem with uprating the sidemounts is it makes a bit of sense on the K03/K03s because they have one sidemount so only need one replacement, I would need two which would end up costing more than a front mount and be less effective due to positioning.

I had a look at the link you posted for the fender liner but I can't see how that would help, I doubt it would create any lower pressure than is already there and I can't see how it could suck any more air through.

Posted by: clarkma5 Jun 8 2012, 09:41 AM

It really depends on the air pressures. If the air pressure behind the intercooler, between the IC and the firewall in other words, is low then there will be increased flow through the vented liner and through the intercooler, increasing cooling. I do not know if that is the case but it is a part that VW has seen fit to produce and put on massmarket turbocharged so I'm going to assume they engineered it to do SOMETHING positive for the car. It's a cheap enough part that I don't mind the notion that it didn't gain me much, but like I said, I've had far fewer, and far less severe, heat soak incidents since I installed it so *shrug* take that as you will. And that has included a couple trackdays and enough warm days cranking the AC and/or driving aggressively to give it a decent test I think, though I'm also a smoother, less aggressive driver now than I was when I first got the car so maybe I'm just putting less thermal load into the system. I couldn't say for sure, too many variables.

I agree on the SMIC upgrade for the AWZ application, it's too pricey. Like I said, I'd only consider a single forge SMIC for a stock or chipped K03, not anything more. If I had a big power 1.8T I'd consider the dual forge SMIC because I don't like the way FMICs look (there are ways to disguise them better than others, I know) but from a pure cost/performance perspective yeah the FMIC wins.

Posted by: 350Z Jun 8 2012, 09:48 AM

QUOTE(clarkma5 @ Jun 8 2012, 06:41 PM) *
I do not know if that is the case but it is a part that VW has seen fit to produce and put on massmarket turbocharged so I'm going to assume they engineered it to do SOMETHING positive for the car.


Tell that to the PCV system and N249 valve.

Posted by: 350Z Jul 2 2012, 09:38 AM

New Brakes are here! Just waiting for the pads.


Posted by: 350Z Jul 3 2012, 09:35 AM

Ferodo pads for the front.



OE for the rears, they don't really do alot anyway.



Oh boy!


Posted by: dukenukem Jul 5 2012, 11:49 PM

Are they DS2500? If so, great choice on them. I have been running them and they are all sorts of wonderful! Just forget about ever seeing your wheels clean, ever.

Posted by: 350Z Jul 7 2012, 12:21 AM

Yeah they are 2500s, I have heard nothing but good things about them but for some reason on my car the rear 2500 are half width? So I went with OEM.

Do you use wax/sealant on your wheels?

Posted by: dukenukem Jul 7 2012, 07:29 PM

QUOTE(350Z @ Jul 7 2012, 03:21 AM) *
Yeah they are 2500s, I have heard nothing but good things about them but for some reason on my car the rear 2500 are half width? So I went with OEM.

Do you use wax/sealant on your wheels?

I tried it one time and it does help but the dust from 2500 comes off very easily with a pressure washer and any ots wheel cleaner so I didnt bother to wax my wheels again.

Also, not sure if you have found out yet or not but the pads require a stop or 2 to get to full operating temp when starting from cold or in cold weather. Just fyi

Posted by: 350Z Jul 8 2012, 02:01 AM

Yeah I know, they have a special process for bedding them in once they are fitted too.

Posted by: 350Z Jul 15 2012, 09:59 AM











Posted by: 350Z Jul 18 2012, 09:28 AM

More things arrived just in time to be fitted tomorrow!


Posted by: 350Z Jul 28 2012, 09:40 AM

New Filter.



Brakes are on.





Whats missing?



Started polishing the charge pipe. (Its a work in progress)


Posted by: 350Z Aug 12 2012, 03:13 AM

Bushings are on and no noticable loss in comfort which is good, the whole car just feels tighter.



I also started removing bits from the bay to make it less cluttered and I have a shiny charge pipe now, intake manifold is next.


Posted by: clarkma5 Aug 12 2012, 09:40 AM

PU suspension bushings are a mistake. Most suspension bushings for the MkIV are designed to deflect. The tightness of the PU bushings feels good at first but they will soon succumb to too much flexing and break or enlarge all their holes, causing terrible slop and squeaking. Go back to OEM, you can do the heavier-duty R32 bushings in the lower control arms if you prefer, and do real engineered sway bar links if you haven't yet. You can go all the way to spherical bearings if you want to stay up on maintaining them, they're supposedly quite brilliant, but pretty over the top for a road car.

The biggest gains in suspension for MkIVs seems to come from subframe bushings. As far as I know there aren't any companies that make stiffer ones but there are some tutorials online about making your own from boat trailer rollers and the like. Really brings the front end of our cars alive.

Posted by: 350Z Aug 12 2012, 09:56 AM

What you say may have been true in the past or in the US but among the SEAT community the super pros are widely regarded as the best you can get and a lot of folks have been using them for years without problems. The company I got them from use the very same ones on their BTCC cars and back them 100% as a better option than OEM if you want to tighten the car up without sacrificing ride quality.

In fact they are confident enough in them to offer a 36000 mile 3 year warranty so if I notice any problems I can go back to OEM at no cost to myself but thanks for the advice I will keep an eye on them.

Posted by: 350Z Jan 9 2013, 12:53 PM

Been a bit slow with updates recently, winter plus thinking about a new car and busy work life are the main reasons.

Anyway I picked the latest forge recirc valve (008) for pretty cheap so fitted that.



Out with the old.



Old and New



Thicker adjustable anti roll bars too.



A few work pics because everybody loves planes.







Anyway thats it, not much really but like I said I can't decide what to do at the moment car wise.




Posted by: 350Z Apr 27 2013, 03:54 AM

Not updated in ages so figured it was about time, the extended winter really sapped away my enthusiasm but im pleased to say im doing stuff again.

I ordered some of the 2.0 coils and adapters which should be here next week and also fitted my colour coded splitter.






Posted by: 350Z Apr 27 2013, 04:47 AM

It's here!


Set to work this morning with these. (Only need the T55 Torx)



I took this so you could see the holes you are going to need to put the flathead in to get the airbag unclipped.



One side unclipped.



Airbag is free.



Wheel off.





New wheel in.



Airbag back on.



Cliffs:

Disconnect the battery before hand obviously (I left it for an hour)
Keep at it with the clips as they are a pain.
Leave the nut in the middle on slightly when you first pull the old wheel off so you dont smash yourself in the face!

Pros:

This new wheel is about as OEM+ you can get alongside the R32 wheel that some fit.
Its thicker than the old one and feels better to hold.
The materials look nicer and the red stiching is the same as OEM.

Cons:

The emblem at the bottom says Cupra instead of the R logo which some may care about.
Lost the red stripe at the top so less racecar.

Posted by: clarkma5 Apr 28 2013, 12:06 PM

Mmm that is a nice interior. Good sporty without being overstated about it.

Posted by: 350Z May 2 2013, 12:50 PM

Time to upgrade the coil packs.

Old


Out


Old vs New


Adapters in. (Points to anyone who points out the amature hour mistake!)


All in but one.


Bah






No matter what I tried!






In the end I had to negotiate using a large pair of pliers.


All done.


The 2.0 packs seem to give a smoother idle and have ironed out some hesitation so im happy.

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