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Dieselstation Car Forums _ User's Rides _ Boost's 1997 BMW 328i

Posted by: Mr b00st Aug 15 2011, 10:56 PM

Question: you know how long you can drive a Honda Accord before you get fucking sick of it and get rid of it?

Answer:



about a year.

Sold it today, bought this:




1997 328i sedan, 5 speed, black on tan. Bought it for about half of what I sold the Honda for, it's in great shape. heart.gif E36's.
Roll on with the "b00st is a douche" etc, since I have a BMW now, I guess I am! Haha :-\

Seriously though, car is fantastic. There's a list of things I need to take care of, then a list of things I want to do, but it's well cared for and well preserved. Love it already. I will update this thread later, had it since like 4pm today.

Posted by: Altostratus Aug 16 2011, 06:21 AM

get a good coat of wax on the wheels, nothing spits brake dust like a bmw.

Posted by: Razor Aug 16 2011, 06:24 AM

QUOTE(Altostratus @ Aug 16 2011, 10:21 AM) *
get a good set of wheels


Fixed.

And make sure you don't stretch'n'slam this.

Posted by: green73ta Aug 16 2011, 06:44 AM

I like it!

Posted by: dukenukem Aug 16 2011, 01:16 PM

Reliability is tedious, eh?

Congratulations on the new car.

Posted by: Altostratus Aug 16 2011, 05:23 PM

i see this on my local craigslist and methinks you need a road trip to Cambridge, Ontario

http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-other-parts-accessories-Bmw-M3-1998-Part-Out-Black-on-Black-W0QQAdIdZ299287519
Edit: view his other for sales. fap.

Posted by: Aircooled Aug 18 2011, 10:36 AM

Real car

Posted by: shandyman5 Aug 18 2011, 02:33 PM

And to think you defended that beige turd.... congrats man much better choice.

Posted by: b0mb3r Aug 19 2011, 03:05 AM

awesome and it is not too surprising that you got rid of the honda.

Posted by: Mr b00st Aug 22 2011, 03:08 PM

So i've been keeping super busy getting this car up to daily driver spec in the last week. Here's what I've been doing.

Replaced the plugs - used the NGK equivalent of the bosch twin-tips, then seafoamed the car, fouled all the new plugs, warrantied them out at Advance Auto laugh.gif Also changed the oil - 7 qts of 5w30 castrol syntech, ouch.


these cars have nicely designed ignition components. The coil packs actually bolt down (HEY VW!) and the harness clips actually work. Very nice.

Replaced the serpentine belts - they were cracked beyond belief - with new Dayco belts. I really like the auto tensioner setup on these, much better than manual tensioners like the Saab had

Adjusted the handbrake - loosen cables in the cabin, jack up and remove rear wheels, rotate hub till you can see a sprocket through the rear lug holes, rotate until the disc stops turning, rotate back a half turn, replace wheel. Handbrake went from doing nothing all the way up to locking up hard at 5 clicks. Pain in the ass to do but worth it.

Took the intake restrictor out of the airbox - if you have an E36 you need to do this, free power! Also took the vacuum line off the exhaust flapper to make more noise and eliminate possible vacuum leaks.

Speaking of vacuum leaks, maybe this was causing one?



this is the intake boot between the ASC throttle body and the MAF. That fitting connects to the intake manifold and I was getting a terrrrrible idle issue with this crap all ripped and glued together. So I got a new one.



Also cleaned both throttle bodies. The first TB is for traction control - when it sense wheelspin it shuts partially to limit power (rather than using the brakes). The primary TB was FILTHY, TB cleaner around the hinges and where it seals helped the idle a lot.

Last few days I've been chasing down a "hanging idle" condition - which is why I cleaned the TB's, replaced that boot for the vacuum leak, cleaned the PCV out and seafoamed and FI cleaned it. Turns out my idle control valve is jammed - you can tell because it hangs revs like a boss with the main TPS plugged in, and doesn't with it off. So I ordered one on ebay and get to enjoy replacing that crap when it comes. (it's under the IM near the firewall!)

Also going to be changing some vacuum routing - there's a vacuum resevoir that operates the exhaust flap I'm going to bypass, because it's a pain to remove and I just want to minimize vacuum issues.

Car needs some more mechanical work before I start any modifications. Front lower control arm bushings are shot, there's about an 1/8" play in the rear universal joint on the driveshaft, trans and diff bushings are shit, needs a blower motor resistor, needs brakes, etc. I have the 2 qts of Mobil 1 75w90 for the rear diff and 2 for the trans, just gotta get around to doing that as I'm burned out from chasing down this hanging idle crap.

Still, I wanted something to both tinker with and daily drive. Mission accomplished. It's a LOT of fun and a great highway car. I'll continue updates when I have some!

Posted by: Altostratus Aug 22 2011, 04:19 PM

1. buy a bunch of hockey pucks
2. make a bunch of bushings
3. ???????
4.profit.

Posted by: Mr b00st Aug 22 2011, 04:45 PM

QUOTE(Altostratus @ Aug 22 2011, 08:19 PM) *
1. buy a bunch of hockey pucks
2. make a bunch of bushings
3. ???????
4.profit.



Energy Suspension poly bushings are surprisingly cheap for this car! But that is a good idea.

Posted by: b0mb3r Aug 22 2011, 06:27 PM

I read that this kit makes a difference in the OBDII motors:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1965-m50-manifold-conversion-adapter-kit-to-install-obdi-manifold-on-an-m52s52.aspx
of course you need to source your own manifold or pay them 699 for one smile.gif

Posted by: Mr b00st Aug 22 2011, 08:18 PM

QUOTE(b0mb3r @ Aug 22 2011, 10:27 PM) *
I read that this kit makes a difference in the OBDII motors:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1965-m50-manifold-conversion-adapter-kit-to-install-obdi-manifold-on-an-m52s52.aspx
of course you need to source your own manifold or pay them 699 for one smile.gif


I've come across mention of the M50 intake manifold swap a few times too, it seems tempting if I could find a good one. Thanks for the link!

Posted by: ImAwesome Aug 25 2011, 04:33 AM

silly bimmer

Posted by: Mr b00st Aug 28 2011, 10:51 AM



brakes... are not supposed to look like this. WTF previous owner?!? What's weirder, they were grooved like records but not warped at all - stopped OK but not great, no vibration. Still, fuck that. Needs new brakes. Front pads were pretty low too.



Calipers off. Like every BMW, the brakes are disappointing: single piston sliding calipers! Hooray!



Old vs new. Yeahhhh



Pads aren't supposed to look like this, either. wtflolbbq



Huzzah! Akebono ceramic pads, too. Stops like a boss. Need to borrow a friend with a power bleeder and flush out the brake fluid too.


Other stuff recently done:
-Replaced brake switch. OBC was throwing a pretty consistent "brake circuit failure" code. Turns out my brake lights were only coming on half the time, lol. The switch under the pedal is perhaps the crappiest design ever but at least they're cheap. Of course replacing that made the brake lights work but somehow killed all the lights on the left side of the car - tail lights, corner lights. Hours of head scratching lead to a blown fuse, although I did also figure out the headlight switch is supposed to be lit - put a bulb in it - presto! I figured it was either a relay or the switch or a grounding problem - always forget to check simple stuff first!

The "hanging revs/high idle" was chased down to be a non-op ICV. Go figure. These OBD2 motors make it a pain in the dick to change it - since the top side fits into a grommett on the underside of the intake manifold. I actually have a new ICV sitting in my garage, but I'm waiting on parts from BMW - a new hose to go to the intake elbow, and a new grommet for the manifold. Figure I will do it once and do it right. parts should be here next week. In the mean time I"ve been driving around with the throttle position sensor (for the main TB) unplugged, which cures the rev hang BS although gives me no traction control.

Got a set of Powerflex bushings for the front LCA's. Going to have someone that knows what the f*ck they're doing put those in.

Ordered a final stage resistor for the blower motor, which is the issue. $204 at BMW; $52 for an OEM part through an online supplier; i'm happy to wait a few days! This part is right near the brake switch so thankfully not a dash-out situation, but I still don't like laying upside down!


anyway that's most of what's new.

Posted by: clarkma5 Sep 1 2011, 04:01 PM

That's exactly how my rotors and pads looked when I cooked them on the track, no warpage but grooved like corduroy jeans.

Posted by: Mr b00st Sep 1 2011, 05:13 PM

QUOTE(clarkma5 @ Sep 1 2011, 08:01 PM) *
That's exactly how my rotors and pads looked when I cooked them on the track, no warpage but grooved like corduroy jeans.



very weird, maybe they were overheated but the rotors on my Honda warped instead of grooved when I overheated them, and it's the same brake design (single piston sliding caliper.)

Today I converted the main serpentine belt tensioner from manual (internal spring) to hydraulic (little shock absorber.) Getting my voltage regulator for the blower motor (working AC!) tomorrow, idle control valve on tuesday. Also got my low control arm bushings (front) pressed in, steering is MUCH better. Been messing with a few other things too but that's the big stuff.

Posted by: clarkma5 Sep 2 2011, 05:06 AM

It doesn't have to do with caliper design, warpage is a result of thermal expansion battling very firm mounting points and losing.

Posted by: Mr b00st Sep 2 2011, 10:10 AM

QUOTE(clarkma5 @ Sep 2 2011, 09:06 AM) *
It doesn't have to do with caliper design, warpage is a result of thermal expansion battling very firm mounting points and losing.


so would grooved rotors be a sign your lug nuts aren't torqued enough? I just don't get how they'd groove and not warp.

I do like the way you put that though smile.gif

Posted by: clarkma5 Sep 2 2011, 11:36 AM

The grooving is just the result of the rotor material itself heat softening and succumbing to the brake pad friction material...

Posted by: Mr b00st Sep 2 2011, 12:19 PM

QUOTE(clarkma5 @ Sep 2 2011, 03:36 PM) *
The grooving is just the result of the rotor material itself heat softening and succumbing to the brake pad friction material...



gotcha. Thanks!

Posted by: Mr b00st Sep 19 2011, 11:26 AM

sooooo lets see here.

The idle hang/rev issue was NOT the ICV. At least I have a new one now, heh. After lots of head scratching figured out the problem. The TPS is supposed to be sending 0.7v to the DME (ECU) at idle and 4.7 at WOT. it was sending like 1.4 at idle. TPS sensor off the TB rod itself showed between 0.7-4.7 so figured out the rod is misaligned, which is weird... because it's not adjustable. No idea how it got FUBARed, but i tapped out the screw holes on the TPS and drilled them to give it some adjustability and closer to spec for the time being. I just (today) picked up a used S52B32 (E36 M3) throttle body, which is the exact same thing - going to fit it later today with my spare TPS sensor and see how it does.

Replaced the A/C blower motor resistor, HVAC works great now. Also changed the cabin filter which is a pain in the dick on E36's, now the A/C doesn't smell like a corpse.



Did the DIY fix on the on board computer to get the pixels to come back. Missing a column but not bad for a $6 roll of 3M two sided tape as opposed to $225 for a reman unit!



New LCA bushings - powerflex poly



New exhaust system - dual 2.25" from the crossover back, no cats, twin-in-single-out Magnaflow (I know.) Sounds decent enough.



Damn BMW engineers. Clearance between fill port of diff and spare tire well = about 2.25". Had to order special sockets to change the diff fluid, which also smelled like a corpse. Did the tranny too, about 1 qt of DexMerc - weird.



just seemed like a cool picture, frankly.


and some normal pictures after my shitty detailing job - wash, polishing compound on scratches, claybar, sealing wax. Also yes, the tail lights are smoked.








next on the list after the TB swap: ordered a set of UUC street density trans mounts and enforcer cups, going on this week. Coolant system overhaul (new T-stat, alum T-stat housing, new fan clutch, coolant flush). Maybe new tie rod end links. etc. Love this car.

Posted by: Altostratus Sep 19 2011, 12:01 PM

very very nice booosty!

and there is absolutely nothing wrong with magna-flow that i know of.....now that tip on the other hand....needs to die in a very fiery fire.

Posted by: Mr b00st Sep 19 2011, 12:57 PM

QUOTE(Altostratus @ Sep 19 2011, 04:01 PM) *
very very nice booosty!

and there is absolutely nothing wrong with magna-flow that i know of.....now that tip on the other hand....needs to die in a very fiery fire.




nooooooo I like my oval tip!

thanks though!

Posted by: Bjorn Sep 21 2011, 05:32 PM

I was with you until you smoked your taillights. What ever possessed you?

Posted by: b0mb3r Sep 21 2011, 06:30 PM

How do you pass emissoins without cats? do you have a CEL? and I hate assholes that have cars without cats... they always stink.

Posted by: Mr b00st Sep 22 2011, 11:56 AM

QUOTE(b0mb3r @ Sep 21 2011, 10:30 PM) *
How do you pass emissoins without cats? do you have a CEL? and I hate assholes that have cars without cats... they always stink.


Brain fart. I meant no resonators, not cats. I still have cats. The exhaust is new from the crossover behind the cats to the tip.

(not for long though. Test pipes and 02 spacers are on the list along with some headers.)

As per the tail lights - i like them for now. Want euro tail lights that don't have the amber sections, which I hate.

Posted by: Mr b00st May 21 2012, 10:21 AM

Have done a big chunk more work on the car

Replaced a bunch of coolant system parts (no pictures)
T-stat
housing
reservoir
upper and lower hoses
fan clutch

Replaced my driveshaft and flex disc with a reman'd one. My rear universal joint was... pretty bad. Not a fun job.

Remove exhaust and heat shield, from downpipes back (since mine's all one piece)



Remove rear and front braces, unbolt center support bearing, remove transmission brace (you can see the UUC trans mounts & cups here)


rear joint and diff


whole driveshaft, support bearing


rear joint had like 20 degrees of play radially.


removing flex disc...



Also replaced my clutch pedal bushings, and installed a rogue engineering adjustable clutch stop, which is great.

Remove seat: fuck, it's only four bolts and three connectors, and that way I can lay on my back with my feet up on the rear seat. Worth it. Lookit all that crap.


With panel cover and knee protector taken out


rod going into clutch master with pedal out


Clutch pedal out, return spring separated


Old bushings... no wonder the clutch kinda went to the right near the bottom of it's travel



More soon... shocks/springs/sway bars, wheels and tires, other small stuff.

Posted by: 350Z May 21 2012, 01:16 PM

God damn your car is filthy, other than that very nice.

Posted by: fiber optic May 21 2012, 04:05 PM

I'm laughing at the seemingly unsmoked cigarette under the seat.

Posted by: Mr b00st May 21 2012, 07:11 PM

QUOTE(fiber optic @ May 21 2012, 08:05 PM) *
I'm laughing at the seemingly unsmoked cigarette under the seat.


I was like "oh there it went!"

i've been lax about cleaning it lately, but the space right next to where the seat would go is impossible to reach with a vacuum. There were fries and shit down there too, glad I got to clean it out.

Posted by: Aircooled May 22 2012, 07:09 PM

Hmm, makes me wonder if my driveshaft u joint is going bad, there is some clunking when I get on/off the gas but I figured its my cracked diff bushing, but a u joint would make more sense.

I laughed when you put a 20 dolla aftermarket clutch stop in when I extended mine for less than a dolla.


Posted by: Synesthesia May 23 2012, 05:08 AM

^Did you really glue a bolt to a bolt?

Posted by: Aircooled May 23 2012, 07:50 AM

No, the clutch stop is half threaded into the nut and the threaded rod is threaded into the other half of the mating nut. It does look like I glued it to a bolt though haha. I'm sure that would last 1 mile at best.

Posted by: Synesthesia May 23 2012, 08:42 AM

^Haha alright but shit, still yikes! Do you have room to at least tighten a nut against the mating nut?

Posted by: fiber optic May 23 2012, 05:21 PM

QUOTE(Synesthesia @ May 23 2012, 11:42 AM) *
^Haha alright but shit, still yikes! Do you have room to at least tighten a nut against the mating nut?



Red loctite that and call it a day.

Posted by: Aircooled May 23 2012, 05:49 PM

I don't see why the mating nut needs another nut tightened against it. It's rock solid as is and has held for almost a year now.

Posted by: Synesthesia May 24 2012, 10:44 AM

QUOTE(fiber optic @ May 23 2012, 09:21 PM) *
Red loctite that and call it a day.


Yeah, or this. I'm just amazed it'd work without holding the nut in place somehow, not like there are big loads on it but nuts like to move. Anyway... tongue.gif

Posted by: Mr b00st Jun 7 2012, 11:33 AM

yeah I could've made one for cheaper, no doubt.

should be picking up a K&N pipe and ITG filter and heat shield along with some ZKW headlights this weekend

Posted by: Mr b00st Jun 24 2012, 04:26 PM



awful, awful, awful cell phone picture, but that's the M3 cluster I installed today.

The odometer/LCD was crapping out on my old one, there were light spots in the backing everywhere, and I got a good deal on this. ///M symbol gives +15whp, 8,000rpm tach will be useful when I'm tuned and have the M3 cams in. Just needed two main (illumination) bulbs, which I cannibalized from the non-m cluster, I yanked out the "brake pad warning" light since none of the pads I got had a slot for the useless sensor and they're zip-tied to the struts. Swapped over the odometer "memory card" - small white chunk on the back of the cluster. This cluster had 149k on it, but i'm no liar!

Also got a replacement for my low-speed fan relay, so my A/C will work when i'm sitting still, which is amazing as it's like 100 degrees here now.

Moaaaar updates soon. Might get some new front seats. Might get some wheels. Might get Bilstein & H&R combo. Might get ZKW ellipsoids. Not sure which is next.

180k, still running great.

Posted by: Mr b00st Sep 1 2013, 04:47 PM

More updates


Hit 190k back in February. About 198k now.



Learning that Dayco belts do not go on a BMW. Car started squealing on cold starts, then squealing when wet, then squealing all the time. The Dayco POS belts were all fucking rounded off, I spent a couple hours cleaning rubber chunks out of the pulleys with a knife. Replaced a noisy idler pulley on the main belt and used a BMW/Continental belt, no more noise.


Yeah, these seats have to fucking go. Heading up to VA soon to pick up some E46 sports seats, a little drilling and soldering and these will go in the dumpster!


Another terrible PotatoPhone picture. Have a CEL on for some dumb shit, evap blah blah, TPS bs, and the air pump not running. Gotta throw this sucker and a new check valve/vacuum line in on my next day off. Fuck OBD2.


These tires are awesome, at least coming from S-rated General Altimax R/T's that the PO had on there. Michelin Primacy MXV4.


Bent wheel? No problem. Get another straight one for $60 off ebay with free shipping, throw it on while it's slow at the shop.


"let me play you the song of my people" - actually it was just the pretty new upper radiator hose leaking at the radiator.


E36's - not great for hauling home furniture.


How my drain plug decided to come out last time I changed my oil. BMW, why is my drain plug hollow?


It almost looks good when you Instagram it.

up next: air pump/check valve. fuel tank pressure sensor. E46 Sport seats. Rear shocks/RE shock mounts. Rear trailing arm bushings. More miles. have put 30k on it since I got it fall of 2011, only time it's left me stranded was when I broke the clutch master by being an idiot. Damn good car. Will hit 200k miles soon!

Posted by: Ben212 Sep 16 2013, 11:48 AM

nice classic bimmer. had one back in the day- id love to take it for a spin right now.

Posted by: tyiendki2 Jun 4 2015, 06:32 PM

OMG!!Looks sooooooooo cool!!!i love it very much!! DS_Naughty2.gif DS_Naughty2.gif if you have BMW,maybe http://www.obd2warehouse.fr/category-12-b0-BMW.html is a good choice.



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