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> E30 E30 E30 E30 E30 E30 E30 E30 E30 E30 E30 E30!
nismo
post Nov 19 2011, 06:10 PM
Post #41


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That's not a W140. I like it, but I want a 90's S Class




but on these wheels


And tint, because it is Florida. Straight piped V12 is a must as well. Nice rumble, then banshee when you open it up.



Sorry for the threadjack, carry on.
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Aircooled
post Nov 27 2011, 04:08 PM
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Getting some considerable humming from the front end that goes away when turning left. Front wheel bearing job incoming...
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Aircooled
post Nov 30 2011, 07:35 PM
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Bought a 3 arm puller...

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Aircooled
post Dec 15 2011, 04:37 PM
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Soon.

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Razor
post Dec 15 2011, 05:36 PM
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^ You know how I know you're gay?
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post Dec 16 2011, 09:16 AM
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When you put the best wheel bearings in your car? cool.gif
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shandyman5
post Dec 16 2011, 02:06 PM
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^Lulz....

What does that stand for?
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Aircooled
post Dec 16 2011, 05:13 PM
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Fischers Aktien-Gesellschaft
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Aircooled
post Dec 18 2011, 10:49 PM
Post #49


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It was warm out today...



And I was tired of my wheels howling so here goes wheel bearing replacement.

Take your wheel off.



Get the "grease cap" off, I used a small screwdriver and a hammer.



Then you see this.







Bend that little tab out of the machined notch of the stub axle to the point where it doesn't interfere with it. I should have sprayed some pb blaster on the axle nut at this point.





Put wheels back on, lower car, get 1/2" breaker bar and pipe and procede to break breaker bar. *This might not have happened if I remembered to spray the nuts.



Jack car back up, take wheels off and continue to remove axle nuts with a real tool.



Take caliper off and hang out of the way.



Spray some pb blaster on the brake rotor retaining screw and let sit for a few minutes. Take screw out and remove the rotor, which usually takes a few taps of a mallet...



Pull hub assembly off. I used a craftsman puller, the center screw on it was too small and fit into the stub axle and would have surely pushed the threads off so i took a small piece of steel and drilled a hole (9/32 iirc) in it that fit the point at the end of the puller screw and sat at the end of the stub axle.







Sometimes the inner race part stays attached, pull that off too.



Take a look at that bearing you just pulled off.









Look at that clean beauty.



Back to the job. You're now looking at this.



I got new rear dust guards, I don't think they really needed to be replaced but I did anyway. So take the protective plate off.



A couple taps from a mallet pops the old one off.



Get the new one started.



A 2" piece of PVC works marvels at driving it home.



Done.



Put the "protective plat back on.

Admire your German made FAG bearing one last time before putting it on....



Use the 36mm socket on the inner bearing and a mallet to drive the new bearing/hub assembly home on the stub axle.



Put your new axle nut on hand tight.



Put all assorted brake parts back on.



I tightened the nut as far as it would go with my impact wrench then put the wheels on, dropped the car and did some extra tightening with a socket wrench and cheater pipe.

Jack the car back up and take the wheels off.

The next step is to bend a part of the axle nut into that machined notch on the stub axle. I used a big punch but it didn't come out very nice. Bentley called for a screwdriver but I don't know how much better a job that would have done. In retrospect, using a dremel and a cutoff wheel to cut notches at the ends would have made a real clean strip to bend into the stub axle notch. But whatever, MOAR PICTURES







Should hold.

Tap the "grease cap" in place. Bentley calls for putting some Loctite 638 (a retaining compound) on it but all I had was red and blue threadlocker so I just put it on dry. It's such a tight fit I doubt it's going to come off.



Put wheels back on, lower car and tighten the lugs to final torque ~75 ft lbs.
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Aircooled
post Dec 20 2011, 04:57 PM
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Look what the cat drug in...

A BMW m30b35! This is the bigger brother to the m20b25 engine that is in my car. M20b25=169 hp and 163 torques. M30b35=208hp and 225 torques.













Pulled from an automatic 88' 735i with a little less than 130k miles. Complete minus wiring harness, MAF and ac compressor. Guy bought the car and was told it had a leaking headgasket and a leaky heatercore. Heatercore was bad but he said there were no signs of the headgasket leaking, but the gasket was replaced anyways.

Guy never put the cam gear back on and I bumped the crank so it needs to be retimed before I put the gear back on and put it back together. Once thats done I can get the torque converter off and put it on my engine stand.

Not quite sure what my ultimate goal for this engine is going to be, all I know for sure is that it will be going into my car.
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Altostratus
post Dec 21 2011, 04:05 PM
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understand?

just kidding, apparently its quite a pain to fit a M30 into an E30 chassis
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b0mb3r
post Dec 21 2011, 05:22 PM
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...
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I used to have an '85 535i... do I miss that car... that thing went side ways pretty nicely and that motor was a beast.
@altrostratus is that a non-existent 24v hartmann head for the 2.5?
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Altostratus
post Dec 21 2011, 06:21 PM
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naw, Hartge car from the 80's with an M30 with S38 itb's adapted to it or something
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Aircooled
post Dec 22 2011, 02:22 PM
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Now I gotta get S38 itbs now...
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Altostratus
post Dec 22 2011, 03:46 PM
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they also might be M88 ITB's not too sure.
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Aircooled
post Dec 31 2011, 07:45 PM
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Replaced the intake boot the other day, I asked for one for Christmas lol.

As you can see the old one was starting to crack. So I figured I'd ask for one and replace it before it causes problems.







Bottom was getting bad and i didn't even know it.



Pretty straight forward, loosen all hose clamps, remove boot.



Move clamps to new boot, and reattach.



Then I got all artsy and played around in photoshop and tried to make a vintage m20 pic...



Had the winters mounted as well...

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shandyman5
post Jan 1 2012, 06:15 PM
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At the rate we're going you won't need those winters.....
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Mr b00st
post Jan 17 2012, 05:53 PM
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just a suggestion for what to do with that M30B35, bro.









M30B35, Holset HXOMG, 4"downpipe, e30 shell. Gahhhhh

yes the wiring is hacktastic, but still, holy sheet.

And yeah M30's dont fit in E30's real well - the dizzy is right up on the radiator.

They don't fit in E21's very well either:



(M30B34 turbo from a Euro 745i shoehorned into an E21)
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shandyman5
post Jan 17 2012, 06:15 PM
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Ya swapping that motor in there and trying to do any type of work on it is going to be hell.... Not worth it.
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Aircooled
post Jan 20 2012, 09:13 PM
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^^^ Lulz m30 motors don't need any work done to them once they're in. Haha I kid. But they are pretty bulletproof as far as motors go. They're 300k mile motors easily. And a turbo if def in the future, I'm thinking a twin scroll.

I've ordered the bolts and washers to mount the m30 to the engine stand (no one locally sells M8 1.25 x 100mm bolts short of a $30 box). Before I can mount it I gotta take the torque converter off. In order to take the torque converter off the engine needs to be able to turn. The po replaced the head gasket but never got around to putting the cam gear back on. When I first picked the motor up I forgot the the timing chain wasn't on and I turned the motor over a little bit, until I realized that I was putting it out of time. So I paid extra attention to the timing marks.

Engine as recieved.



Gear on. The Bentley says to put all the slack on the tensioner side, and most of it is on the tensioner side but there is a little slack on the other side, but there is no way to tighten up the non tensioner side without taking the engine out of time as far as I could tell. Also, one of the cam gear bolts was missing from the bucket of bolts I got from the po . sad.gif




Anyway everything is back together and I can turn the crank now without hitting valves.



I went to work on the torque converter but soon realized there was no way I could get a socket or wrench on those bolts between the flex plate and the engine block. By then it was around 8 pm, I had a headache and I had just underwent a surgery last Monday, and am on the verge of getting a cold so I was totally exhausted. I went home, took a shower, and laid down on the couch and was out by 9. Didn't wake up till 8 today. :cool:

After some internet research, it seems those bolts are accessible from the starter hole. I probably would have realized that myself had I not been so tired or if the starter wasn't already in there.





So I had thought that I could get at the torque converter bolts from the starter hole. Nope, chuck testa.



I did a little more looking around and there is an access hole. DOH





And off



I ordered a set of nice grade 10.9 bolts from fastenal.



And I must have been smoking some good shit when I measured and they weren't even close. (Pic is fully screwed in)



There's a good 3/4" of penetration into the block.



So the 100 mm ones were way too long, and since they were only partially threaded I couldn't cut them to length. I went to lowes and got a 70mm one. There was no grade on the baggie (like there was on other baggies) and I assumed they were junk bolts even though they were like $2.30 a pop. (which is why I only got 1)


Then I was taking pictures and realized that they too were grade 10.9.



So fml, it was dark out and I'm working in a poorly lit shed and I've been running all over hell today so I'll just get the other 3 later.

70mm fit is good.





Semi mocked up. Is the big rectangular piece supposed to be centered in any way? Is anything else backwards or anything? I've only ever used my engine stand with an aircooled VW motor and I had a special adapter for those engines, instead of using the adjustable type.





And yes I did run that engine on the stand. Don't worry about the exhaust bends either, a 16yo made them.

Also spotted this guy on the way. Real nice. I liked the sport seats and the biggedness of it. An e28 is def in my future. If it wasn't a slushbox I'd be very interested.



Also, a funny note. I was doing some searching around and I read of an urban legend of the #6 bore being deformed on m30s after sitting on engine stands for extended periods. I came across this a couple times. I never found any supporting evidence other than some guy who thought his cylinder bore was warped but turned out he bent his valves on #6.

Also I need to get out of school get a real job and get a cherry picker..
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