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> Shooting Team Volvo For Life
post Apr 28 2010, 01:47 PM
Post #21

Pit Mechanic

Group: Members
Posts: 1,070
Joined: 3-March 08
From: Los Angeles CA
Member No.: 4,281
Car: 1998 Honda Civic CX

QUOTE(MikeC @ Apr 27 2010, 11:41 PM) *

The rig I hired, I'm not really a specialist car photographer so the amount I use them doesn't justify buying outright. Costs about $1000/day including a bloke to transport & rig boom, actual rig is $600, but operator costs always bump it up. Two beams are bolted underneath the car - this is the most time consuming bit - then another beam sits along side the car, tilt/swivel joint fixes to this and finally extension beam leads to camera position. This final part is extenable up to about 11 metres. All made from carbon, very light.

I guess with practise you could do all this yourself, but its time consuming and you need quite a bit of knowledge of how car chasis are made to find right points to fix to.
Once set up it's very easy to use, just push car and away you go . . Rig moves about quite alarmingly, first time I used one, it was very windy and I thought this can't be sharp, but it was. Did a 45 second exposure image in a car park, no problem. Biggest problem is then retouching out rig, image on video isn't final version so doen't look that great. We were also very tight on time so didn't have chance to find really cool location. There are versions of the rig that have glass tilt/swivel joint that are so high quality there's hardly any retouching required, but they are so heavy, you have to put blocks in suspension.

My overall view of them is that they're very easy to work with, it's really just another tool, the key to a great image is still lighting, composistion and location which for this image we kind of got, it was OK not brilliant, but for a 20 minute shoot acceptable, I'll try and post final version.


Thanks so much for the reply! That information is very helpful. Lots of us here on DS use much lighter duty rigs, usually consisting of various types of boom arms mounted to the roof/bonnet/rear glass of the car using Manfrotto suction cups and super clamps. These setups work well in their own right, and under controlled circumstances... However, the Move N Shoot is kind of a Holy Grail/pipe dream (for me at least) because of the distances you can achieve between the car and the camera, as well as the ability to actually drive the car somewhat at speed.

Thanks again for taking the time to reply, I really appreciate it! thumbs_up.gif thumbs_up.gif
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post Apr 29 2010, 08:29 AM
Post #22


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Posts: 2,817
Joined: 18-February 08
From: Cape Town, South Africa
Member No.: 4,265
Car: Mazda 2

Oh wow, how awesome is it to have another legend seasoned photographer contributing to how the big world works!

Great to have you here Mike!
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